Saturday, January 24, 2009

27 Weekends (part 5)

Portugal Dec 07
Porto the home of Port wine with Anna, Scott and Sinead. Running along the banks of the Duoro River. A different perspective of the town by boat. The traditional custard tart. The red rooves and delapitated looking Unesco Heritage Riberia area. Accross the water to the Villa Nova de Gaia area home of the Port wine cellars. A tour and tasting in the Sandeman cellar. The huge Christmas tree on the main street of Av dos Aliados. Catching the tourist tram to the beach. The height up on the Iron Bridge. Bad news taking in the views from the Torre de Clerigos tower and church. The inevitable posters of Ronaldo and Mourinho. Sampling the Porto nightlife including its gay friendly establishment. Hungover in the 1920's Cafe Majestic. Catching the train to Peso da Regua deep in the Duoro Valley, a visit and tour of a local winery and plenty of Port for the ride home.
Lisbon a fleeting visit a table for two as the remainder of the gang arrived. An early start and run along the Tagus River. Half day visit to Sintra taking in the Palacio Nacional de Sintra and a long fruitless walk for the Castle.

Belgium
An early arrival at our inner city apartment means a long evening of Belgium Beer in the retro Ste Catherine quarter. A hungover train trip to Bruges. Chips and Mayo in the Markt (main square) Canal Boat tour through the town. Brewery tour and beer in the De Halve Maan brewery. A visit to t'Brugs Beerje to sample a couple of the 300 beers sold. Back in Brussels, the awful Beer Museum, the Grand Palace and Manneken Pis. Dinner, Mussell and Frites along the kitch Rue de Bouchers. Sinead and the EU area. Chocolate in the Sablon area. Still desperate for beer a pub crawl first taste of the test tube like Quak Beer and drinking in coffins not to mention the airport bar.

Thursday, January 22, 2009

27 Weekends (part 4)

Germany-Munich/Bavaria
The pedestrian streets Neuhauser Strasse and Kaufinger Strasse down to Marienplatz and the Rathaus with Glockenspiel. Sausage and beer for lunch by Frauenkirche. Hot Gluwein in the Viktualienmarkt, surrounded by Wurst. The history of Octoberfest. Dinner at Lowenbrau meal one of 10 pork dinners starting with Schweinshaxe (pork knuckle). Overnight snow heavy winds and rain start day two. A visit to the Residenz home to former Bavarian Kings. The U-Bahn out to the BMW showroom onto the 1972 Olympic Village taking in the views from the Olympic Tower all the way to the Alps, don't forget the tacky Rock n Roll memorabilia. A long walk from the S-Bahn to the Allianz Arena resulting in a broken umbrella. Red, Blue or White at night depending on which team is at home. 2874 inflated panels, media room and photos underneath personal players photos. Dinner in the Hoffbrauhaus, special of the day pork cutlet with Stein in one hand.

On the road heading for the Romantische Strasse. A detour to the closed on Monday Dachau. Across to Augsburg the a dash to the toilet and the never ending streets to get out of town. First real stop at Landsberg am Lech a wander around town a touch of snow and down the banks of the Lech. Destination Fussen by night fall a brief stop at the walled town of Schongau. First sight of Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau under lights. The antiquated Hotel Hirsch (deer) complete with four poster bed. An early morning run around Forggensee in light snow. A brief visit to Benedictine Monastery of St Mang looking over the River Lech and Hohes Schloss. Ludwigs Neuschwanstein a walk through the woods to a view from Marienbrucke. The elaborate Singers Hall and Throne rooms.

Across the bottom of Germany detouring off the Romantische Strasse onto Lake Konstanz and to Lindau and its Island on the Lake. A night in quaint Meersberg home of the Zepplin Museum and Upper and Lower Towns. Dinner in the Lower Town. A visit to the medievil Old Castle complete with dungeon, armour and bows and arrows.

Rolling hills and Vineyards, heavy snow and Black Forest Gateaux in Titisee. A night in the Black Forest (Schwarzwald) in the Open Drain Town of Freiburg. Pints in two separate breweries the mirror that was a toilet in Freiburgs Jazz Bar. Views from Freiburg Munster the Gothic Church in Munsterplatz. Driving through the Black Forest, Cuckoo Clocks in Triberg. A dark arrival and no bed in University town Tubingen. Dinner at a brewery on the banks of the Necker. A romantic walk in the snow through the Aldtstadt up to the Stiftkirche. Heading back towards the Romantische Strasse with stops in the Meteor hit Nordlingen, with complete city walls and views atop the 90m high church steeple. One more stop in Dinkelsbuhl another mad dash to the toilet and a wander around the city walls. Driving through Rothenburg ob der Tauber city walls to our hotel. The enchanting little town high above the Tauber. Day tripper free in the evening as we took in the City Walls. An incredible meal at Zur Hoell with the town Cryer at the bar. A visit to the Christmas Shop and Museum and on our way to our final stop Wurzberg. A visit to the Residenz before drinks in a Weinstube and Gluwein in the main square. Wandering across the Old Main Bridge and up to Fortress Marienberg.

Thursday, January 15, 2009

27 Weekends (part 3)

Edinburgh Sept 07
RWC 07 AB's v Scotland 40-0. Half empty Murrayfield a ground that is a little worse for wear. Scottish Whiskey experience with Rob and Adeline, complete with free Glencairn Glass. Out of the way B & B, interrupted afternoon nap from bagpipes and wedding party staying downstairs. Our first introduction to square sausage. The magnificent Edinburgh Castle. Walking the Royal Mile and taking the view atop Arthurs Seat. Beers in Haymarket and Dirty Dicks on Rose St decorated with musical instruments and golf club heads. How good are curry chips?? Sending someone to find the hidden toilet in Jekyl and Hyde never wears thin.

Cardiff, Bristol and Bath Oct 07
The writing was on the wall in London, recovering from a stomach bug, having to catch the train and being stung £60 each, then queuing for over 2 hours to squeeze on a Cardiff bound train. Rob and I giving the illusion we were breaking into Roberto's flat. Being caught by the neighbours who kindly offered to take our bags and whose door we knocked on at 2am to get them back. The buzz around the pubs before the game. The French fans singing outside the teams hotel, resplendent in Chabal costumes. Our amazing seats above Henry and Co. Close at half time then the place erupts as the French sneak it. Solemn drinks and tapas with Roberto post match. Chip Alley and for a minute thinking we were in the third world. Cardiff Castle and peacocks. Impressive Bristol split by the River Avon. Chatting in Bristols Notre Dame looking Cathedral. Friendly hosts in our B and B. Cornish pasties on the banks of the Avon. A visit to the Roman Baths narrated by our audioguide Bill Bryson, still heated by Suphorous Mineral Springs. A visit to Bath Abbey and Crypt. The typewriter row of Georgian Houses and stumbling upon a John and Helen recommended pub for local beer and Cider.

Florence Oct 07
Wonderful little B and B on the outskirts of Pisa. Starting our love affair with Italian Coffee. The first impressive sight of the Leaning Tower. A whistle stop visit to the Cathedral and Bapistry. Gelato on the banks of the Arno. Florence's Duomo, the insane lines of tourists for the Uffizi gallery, Ponte Vechio and the gold and silver shops, the impressive views atop Piazza Michelangelo, the disappointing Galleria Dell Accademia with the rather large Statue of David. Alfresco dining finished off with a bottle Lemoncello. A dash to the toilet on the South Side of the Arno before pizza amongst the antique market in Piazza Santo Spirrito.

Stockholm and Gotheburg Oct 07
A small little bedsit in suburban Stockholm.Fourteen islands making up the city. The amazing Autumnal Colours wandering around Djurgarden. Then seeing them in full on a boat trip around the area. The home of Icebugs. The Vasa Musuem sunk after launch in 1628. Gamla Stan the beautiful old town naturally complete with Kungliga Slottet or Royal Palace. Beatroot and meatball sandwhiches in Stockholms funky Sodermalm. Cobbled streets and narrow alleyways and a small english type pub with extensive beer collection top off our exploration of Sodermalm. Ferry ride home. Arguments before dinner and two missing people in Gamla Stan. Daylight saving ending and an extra hour to wait on the platform for our Gothenburg train. Party central with IFK Gothenburg taking the 2007 football title for the first time in 11 years. Blue flags and songs a plenty as the evening progressed. The Universeum, clocking running speeds, annaconda's, rainforest and shark tanks. The onboard Maritime museum including the Nordkaperen Submarine. More beer in the wooden Swedish beerhall ohallen 7:an.

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

27 Weekends (part 2)

Poland June 07
John and Aga's wedding, Poznan. Driving on the right for the first time. Polish beer, crazy heat, phrase book purchased lunch. €10 for a round of 10 drinks. The wooden church, the 7 course wedding with wild boar, the countless bottles of vodka, the storela storela song, the b grade polish tv celebrities, the worst haka in the world, Anna and the spilt soup, my allergic reaction to the same soup, the Italian lads and the dancing, more vodka and singing the day after. Lack of airport directions in Warsaw, horrendous traffic on a bus bound for Warsaw so much for a last look around the town.

London July 07
John and Helen overseas !! Sweet apartment down from Tower Bridge. The prologue of the Tour de France through Hyde Park Fabian Cancellara the victor, a taste of the carnival atmosphere. Losing the man in the red jersey at Piccadilly Circus. Dinner at Gaucho Grill Steakhouse. Watching the peleton ride over Tower Bridge at the start of stage one Robbie McEwan the victor, frantic photos, and a family photo under Tower Bridge.

France-Paris and Avignon July 07
A GPS directed taxi to a waiting single room near the Gare de Lyon. The speed of the TGV, 2 hours 38 Paris-Avignon. Festival D'Avignon, street jazz, live performers with flyers and posters plastered everywhere. A boat cruise on the Rhone. The Palais de Pape once home to medievil popes. Pont St-Benezet originally spanning the Rhone to Villeneuve-les-Avignon. John and his one litre beer. My one and only entre of Foie Grais, the set menu argument and resulting feast. Mum and her excursion obsession. Mt Ventoux and the Lavender fields, watching the back breaking work to extract the oil. Le Baux de Provence the rocky hilltop tourist town complete with impressive chateau. St Remy, the town with the name afforded to Helen's Brandy, my fluent french conversation to order coffee, the walking tour of important sites including the home of Van Gogh. Gordes the beautiful village perched high on a rocky cliff. Wine tasting in the town Menerbes and the Cave of Terra Ventoux. The clay coloured town of Rousillon. Finally the lavender producing Abbey of Senanque and the fourty degree temperature in the valley.

Monday, January 12, 2009

27 Weekends (part 1)

Paris Feb 07
Sineads Birthday surprise. Breakfast in Bed. Views of Sacre Couer, the Montmarte area, patisseries and smoky bars. Set menu complete with allergic reaction. Walking the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, Arc de Triomphe.

Liverpool/Chester Easter 07
Goodison Park, Everton 4 Fulham 1 (Carsley, Stubbs, Vaughan, Anichebe). Chang beer on tap. Cask wine for Sinead and Anna prior to KO. Sharing a cab with dodgy scousers.
Beatles Tour, Cavern Club, Capital of Culture 2008, Unesco World Heritage Port of Liverpool, Cunard and Royal Liver buildings.
Chester on the River Dee, walking the walls with views over the Race-Course, eating Cornish Pasties, watching the boats in the canal locks, eating and drinking in 1940's styled Albion Arms. Roman Chester complete with Amphitheatre.

Norway- Oslo and Bergen May 07
Changing of the guard at Oslo's residence of the King, Det Kongelige Slott. Catching the Ferry to the Bygdoy Pennisula and visiting the three viking ships recovered from Oslofjord. Boarding the metro into the hills and to the Helmenkollen ski jump. Then tracing the history of Norwegian skiing and polar exploration in the worlds oldest ski museum.


Norway in a nutshell, Oslo to Bergen taking in the Flam railway and sailing the fjords. Our watered down version took us mid way along the railway to be picked up by bus and driven to Bergen via frozen lakes, stunning fjords, numerous ski fields and countless tunnels. Bergen 276 days of rain a year. A Wellington type cable car up Mt Floyen. The wooden buildings of Bryggen Wharf. Too much duty free vodka, noodles for dinner followed by €7 beers.

Valencia June 07
Nutella and chocolate filled pastries, saggy boobs on the beach. Living it up in the Estrella Damn bar at the Americas Cup village. Watching Team NZ taking Prada down in the Challenger Finals. The disapointing Valencian Oranges and Paella. The impressive Dolphin Show at L'Oceanographic not to mention the Beluga Whales. Contempary Spainish architecture at the City of Arts and Sciences complex. Running in the old river bed of the diverted River Turia, now Jardine del Turia . Another Bell Tower calf work out.

Friday, January 9, 2009

Round Ireland with a Sinead (part 4)

Cork
The Peoples Republic of Cork where the girls are Orange. The River Lee and downtown on an Island. The English Market, a pint of Murphy's and the Beamish and Crawford Brewery across the road from Tuckey Street. Rear ended at the lights.

Kinsale for Sinead's 27th, Charles Fort one of Europes best preserved forts overlooking the pristine harbour. Along the coast of West Cork through Clonakilty home of Black and White pudding and birthplace of Michael Collins. Drombeg Stone Circle on the way to Baltimore.

Tipperary
Clonmel home to the Bulmers apples. The impressive Rock of Cashel, Cathedral and seat of power for the rulers of Munster.

Waterford
The Deise and Dan the Man Shanahan.The River Suir. Our personal walking tour of the town, taking in the Viking era Reginald's tower, French Church, old city walls and Christchurch Cathedral. Thomas Meagher on horseback the man credited with introducing Ireland's flag. Waterford Crystal and the talented glass blowers. PB half marathons.

Wexford
Dave O'Connells pride and joy. The Model County. The Opera House and the well stocked Green Acres. Witnessing Kilkennys demolition on Waterford and photos over the harbour.

Limerick
Thomond Park the pride of Munster. The river Shannon and King John's Castle.

Kilkenny
The hurling mad county. Kilkenny Castle on the river Nore with the whistling servants and courting chair where you sit back to back with your potential beau so the Butler family can keep an eye. Large gardens with views up to the Blackstair Mountains. Onto Inistioge where Circle of Friends was filmed. The 10 arch stone bridge spanning the Nore and Woodstock Park for valley views and a walled garden. Graiguenamanagh split by the River Barrow with a stretch of the South Leinster Way.

Kildare
Leixlip and the Curragh

Laois
The cross country in the mud at Abbeyleix. Morriseys the pub with the huge grocery store.

Wicklow
Ireland's garden and our playground. The Wicklow Way, Djouce, Maulin, Scarr, Great Sugar Loaf, The Wicklow 100, Lough Tay, Sallys Gap, Avoca, Roundwood, Iron Bridge, Glenmacnass, Wicklow Gap, The Army base in the Glen of Imaal, Lugnaquilla. Enniskerry, Powerscourt Estate and gardens, the five euro waterfall. Arguments in Lynams of Larragh. Glendalough and the two lakes, the disused mine, monastic ruins with the round tower and St Kevins Cave.

Thursday, January 8, 2009

Round Ireland with a Sinead (part 3)

Kerry
Tarbert and the arrival of the Shannon car ferry. Listowel and it's stone washed shop front's. Tralee and the rose. The Dingle Peninsula, traffic jam due to truck drivers stupidity on the foggy Connor Pass. Bodhran lesson's for Helen in Dingle town and that pub inside a hardware store. Beehive stone huts and ring forts approaching Slea Head. Sadly no sight of Fungie the Dolphin or time for a pint in Tom Creans South Pole Pub.

Killarney and its American tourist's, jaunting cars on the stand by. The best B & B breakfast ever in Robben House. Running in the beautiful Killarney National Park circling the lakes and taking in the Black Valley. Exploring the gardens of Muckross house and hiking up past Torc Waterfall for views of the lakes below. Ladies View on the Killarney Kenmare road with Avoca further up the road. Macgillycuddy Reeks and Ireland highest peak Carrantuohill. Perhaps the only January ascent in shorts in the month of January, up Hags Glen and the Devils Ladder. Hot soup by the fire in the Hags Glen Cafe. The narrow and winding Gap of Dunloe in my opinion Irelands best stretch of road. New Years eve in Kenmare, the legendary chip shop. Sneem and the Men of the West postcard. New Years eve puck about and rugby on the beach in Caherdaniel.

Taking a wrong turn on the remote Beara Peninsula and following a Boreen to the cable car to Dursey Ireland. The oldest cable car in Ireland where sheep travel for free.

Round Ireland with a Sinead (part 2)

Donegal
Blown off Malin head the Island of Ireland's most northern point. Great beaches in Bunbeg and our first experience of the Irish language. Gweedore home of Enya and Clannad. A boggy march up Erigal Donegals highest peak for spectacular coast, mountain and lake views. Glenveagh National Park set on Lough Beagh with Glenveagh Castle, similar in appearance to Glendalough. Killybegs Ireland's proudest tidy town. Glengesh pass great valley descent but a little hyped by the LP. Slieve League more bog running on Europe's highest sea cliffs.

Omagh
Hard not to think about that awful bomb.

Sligo
Yeats country. Drunken youths in the city centre on Paddy's Day. The impressive sight of the table top looking Dartry Mountains which extend into County Leitrim.

Mayo
Matt Molloys pub and expensive hot chips in Westport. The tough slog to the top of Croagh Patrick, complete with church. Killary Harbour, Ireland's only Fjord. Achill Ireland and more windswept beaches.

Galway
The town with the Spainish Arch, the Galway Races, the G Hotel and some of the best pubs in the country. Connemara barren landscapes, the Twelve Bens, Gaelic Signage, Joyce Country and Kylemore Abbey. Don't mention the decision not to climb Diamond Peak. Roundstone and a hangover cure of Seafood Chowder with Brown Bread along with handmade Bodhran. Clifden split ice cream sunshine and the stunning sky road. Cleggan horse riding and the boat to Innishboffin. Roossaveel and the boat to the Aran Islands. Innishmoor stone walls upon stone walls, and the cliff edge fort Dun Aengus.

Clare
Seafood Chowder in Ballyvaughan. The Burren and its luna like landscape not to mention the disapointing Dolmen. Doolin and more ferries to the Aran Irelands. The dramatic Cliffs of Moher, complete with optional suicide track. Trad festival in Miltown Malbray. Surfs up at Spainish Point. Kilkee and its semi circle bay, and following day hangovers. Killimer departure point of the Shannon car ferry.

Wednesday, January 7, 2009

Round Ireland with a Sinead (Part One)

Boyne Valley-Bru Na Boinne
Mellifont Abbey built by French monks to temper the Irish monks wildness. Battle of the Boyne William of Orange defeating King James the most famous Protestant v Catholic battle and one celebrated by a large mural just off the Shankill Rd in West Belfast. Newgrange the winter solstice lights the Stone Age passage tomb. Knowth housing the largest passage to the central chamber.

Carlingford
Set on the Cooley Pennisula. Adventure racing in and around the Tay Way. Sleeping with views across Carlingford Lough with the Mourne Mountains rising in the distance.

Newry
Border town in Northern Ireland best to pass through unless taking advantage of favourable exchange rates.

Belfast
Great craic in the pubs, Kellys Cellars with it Republican feel and brilliant sessions or the Crown Liquor Salon with its snugs and ornate mosaic tiles. One of our best nights in Belfast was being locked into a nameless bar off the main street and listening to the best session we have heard in the Island of Ireland.

City Hall full of marble and sitting on the Mayors Throne in the Council Chamber.

West Belfast taking a Black Cab or following the Lonely Planet walking tour. The murals were brilliant and the enormous wall that divides the Falls and Shankill Road a pertinent reminder to the hatred that must still remain.

Enniskillen
Sampling a tremendous Ulster fry in our B and B overlooking Lough Erne

Antrim Coast
Carrick a Rede rope bridge closed due to bad weather, looks good in the photos though.Giants Causeway slightly underwhelmed but I think this was due to the gale force winds and lashing rain. Perhaps viewing the heaxagonal rocks on a clear day with the views across to Scotland would change my mind. Bushmills the oldest distillery in Ireland given a license to distill in 1608. Purveyors of my favourite whiskey Black Bush triple distilled in sherry cask to give a darker appearance and richer taste. The small towns along the coast and inland coloured in red white and blue or green white and orange don't leave much imagination as to what religion rules the roost.

Derry
Interesting couple of days in a quite run down city. Stayed in Bogside site of the famous "You are now entering free Derry mural" and the subsequent murals completed by the Bogside Artists. Sobering place to visit given the recent history. We managed to be in town when the people of Derry were attempting to break the record for the most Santa's congregated in one place. Over 10,000 marched on Ireland's only intact city walls.