Skopje
A throw back to Turkey in Skopje's Bazaar district. Beers in a Tito inspired bar, Yugoslavia memorabilia adorning all the walls. The run down History Museum with clock stopped at 5:17 the time that the Skopje earthquake hit. The brilliant Macedonian flags. Mother Teresa's memorial, Skopje's favourite daughter.
Ohrid
Beautiful views of the lake from Sveti Trojan. Cobbled streets, numerous churches and not to mention Roman Theatre in the old town. Not having enough money to pay the supermarket bill. A hooker in the room next door from our impressive Hostel. A day trip to Sveti Naum on the Albanian border. More brilliant views of the lake looking back to Ohrid town.
Monday, April 27, 2009
Friday, April 24, 2009
Bulgaria
Plovdiv
First stop in Eastern Europe and a step back wealth wise from Turkey. Delightful old town full of restored wooden buildings. Centre piece being the Roman Theatre. Built on seven hills, great views from the Hill of Liberators. Huge surprise at the cost of beer. Bulgarian cuisine Beef tongue and tripe stew.Toy train like journey onto Bansko.
Blagoevgrad
Bulgaria's uni town. Full of trendy bars and cafes. Tiny little old town again full of restored wooden buildings. Comically rude ticket attendants at the bus and train stations. Comparative lap of luxury at Hotel Fenix. Great day trip to the mountain monastery of Rila. The bastion of Bulgarian Christianity through the Ottoman years.
Melnik
Bulgaria's smallest village. Home of the Melnik grape world famous in Bulgaria for its red wine. An afternoon in the sun consuming it, from Melnik's limestone cellar. Limestone cliffs reminiscent of Cappadocia. Rozhen Monastery via the wrong trail, the race to make the bus. Church ruins above the town linked by trails, sadly accompanied by the local dog.
Sofia
Stung for 40 leva on the tram for not punching our tickets and for having a backpack. A slice of Bulgarian cuisine in one of Sofia's traditional restaurants. An afternoon visiting Sofias churches, Sveti George the oldest monument in Sofia, Alexander Nevski the church built to honour the 200,000 Russians who died fighting against the Turks for Bulgarian independence. Free drinks in McCarthys bar, 50ml shots without mixer. Dinner at the world famous in Bulgaria Happy chain. Waitresses in short skirts and tight tops. Mission out to Mt Vitosha and a wrong turn hiking in the national park.
First stop in Eastern Europe and a step back wealth wise from Turkey. Delightful old town full of restored wooden buildings. Centre piece being the Roman Theatre. Built on seven hills, great views from the Hill of Liberators. Huge surprise at the cost of beer. Bulgarian cuisine Beef tongue and tripe stew.Toy train like journey onto Bansko.
Blagoevgrad
Bulgaria's uni town. Full of trendy bars and cafes. Tiny little old town again full of restored wooden buildings. Comically rude ticket attendants at the bus and train stations. Comparative lap of luxury at Hotel Fenix. Great day trip to the mountain monastery of Rila. The bastion of Bulgarian Christianity through the Ottoman years.
Melnik
Bulgaria's smallest village. Home of the Melnik grape world famous in Bulgaria for its red wine. An afternoon in the sun consuming it, from Melnik's limestone cellar. Limestone cliffs reminiscent of Cappadocia. Rozhen Monastery via the wrong trail, the race to make the bus. Church ruins above the town linked by trails, sadly accompanied by the local dog.
Sofia
Stung for 40 leva on the tram for not punching our tickets and for having a backpack. A slice of Bulgarian cuisine in one of Sofia's traditional restaurants. An afternoon visiting Sofias churches, Sveti George the oldest monument in Sofia, Alexander Nevski the church built to honour the 200,000 Russians who died fighting against the Turks for Bulgarian independence. Free drinks in McCarthys bar, 50ml shots without mixer. Dinner at the world famous in Bulgaria Happy chain. Waitresses in short skirts and tight tops. Mission out to Mt Vitosha and a wrong turn hiking in the national park.
Veliko Tarnovo
Sweet accomodation at Hostel Mostel, first seperate shower and toilet. Not to mention all inclusive dinner and beer. Beautiful old town with twin rivers at one of Bulgaria highlight towns. Peaceful hike through more lush bush to yet another monastery, Preobrazhenski. Visiting the long fall at Tsarverets Fortresses execution stone. History of the Bulgarian revolution of 1878 in the national revival museum. Another pleasant hike to Arabanasi a well restored village full of renovated Ottoman houses.
Monday, April 20, 2009
Turkey (part 2)
Olympos
Tasty Gozleme on the side of the motorway. Kadir's tree house's, which are thankfully waterproof as the overnight storm that hit was vicious. A long days walking through the Ta Phrom like Olypmpos ruins. Through to the laid back beachside town of Cirali and onto the mysterious combusitble gases of Chimaera. Beers around the campfire and a long walk to the toliet at 2am.
Kas
Small fishing village whose restaurant scene didnt really cater to our budget. However the best Meatball sandwich I have ever had. Strolling around the harbour with fishermen mending nets, Lycian Tombs and late evening sunshine on another Roman Theatre.
Fethiye
The perfect mix between modern Turkey and Tourism (unlike Ovacik 10k up the road). Brilliant views over the Marina from Tan Pension. The unrivalled hospitality at Tan Pension and the endless cups of tea. A wrong turn and rain putting paid to an afternoon walk on the Lycian Way in the direction of the 2000 abandoned houses in Kayakoy. Quite simply the best Kebab in Turkey the (Pasa Special) at Pasa Kebab. Two days later the novel meal in the fish market. Purchase the fish then give it to the chef and have it cooked in front of you. Shame about the 45 minute unexplained delay.
The Lycain Way
One of the best beaches at Oludeniz Lagoon, white sands and crystal clear waters. Brilliant views from up high on the Lycain Way looking back to Oludeniz with paragliders at touching distance. Small villages, stunning sea vistas and no tourists on the trek. If only all of Turkey was like that ! George House in Faralya, log cabin to sleep in and organic food all grown on the premises to eat. Not to mention the laid back hosts. The death defying track down to Butterfly Valley for a swim on the deserted beach (bar the skinng dipping Germans). Lunch at Mama's restaurant in Kabak our first stop on day two. Big vegetarian meal accompanied by heavenly yougurt and honey. A long climb in the direction of Alinca then retracing our steps to Fethiye by bus.
Pamukkale
Friendly although a tad contrived hosts at Hotel Weise Burg. Sinead did get her hands on amazing Gozleme straight from the fire courtesy of our host. An expensive excursion to the brilliant white calcium full tavertines. Further up to the healing town of Hierapolis. The large Necropolis inside indicates the magical healings success rate. Brilliant views from the Theatre down to Pamukkale and valley below.
Selcuk
The bustling Sunday market full of locals stocking up on delicious fruit and vege. Decent fare and cheap beers never fail to impress when on a budget. Storks nesting on the Byzantine aqueducts. The single pillar from the Temple of Artemis giving an indication to the size of former wonder of the ancient world. Turkey's number one attraction Ephesus the former capital of Western Asia Minor. The best example of a Roman town we have seen thus far. Another impressive theatre and facade of the Library of Celsus. Also the best quote on tour by of course a British package tourist " I thought this place would be better, I mean it is just a pile of rocks."
Bergama
One of our favourite lodging's at Odyssey House a restored Ottoman construction. One of the few people to walk the 7k up to the once mighty Greek Acropolis of Pergamon. Brilliant views to the town and valley below. The centre piece being the Temple of Trajan which was built so it could be seen from the town below. The 10,00 seat theatre was built into the hill and was impossibly steep. A wander through the Old Town backstreets to sight Galen's famous Asclepion. Stupidly paying to enter the enormous Red Basilica the views from outside were the same as inside. Nonetheless a huge Temple dedicated to Egyptian gods.
Cannakkale
Bit of a mission bus wise put paid to our proposed visit to Troy. A photo next to the Trojan Horse from Hollywood fame tempered the blow. Sought shelter in the well constructed War Museum. Home to the Nusret mine layer of WW1 fame, explanations of the naval campaign on the 18th of March 1915 and the ANZAC and Allied landings on the 25th of April. A documentary on Gallipoli and Mel Gibson in the move "Gallipoli" prepared us for our tour the next day. A so so tour of the battlefields and memorials. Great experience to piece together such and important chapter in NZ and Australian history. I will return one day though and complete the story.
Instanbul
Brilliant bus from Cannakale crossing the Dardanelles and following the Sea of Mamaras into the sprawling capital. Sadly disbelief at our four bed dorm in the basement of our hostel also accomodating two staff members. The A list sights of Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia. Disappointment at renovation affected Suleyman Cami. Tea in the afternoon sun in one of Istanbul's tea gardens. No dinner so we could afford beer and Raki along the pumping Nevizade street in the brilliant Beyoglu district. Yogurt and coffee watching Istanbul drift by aboard the Bosphorus ferry. A peak at the mansions that line the famous stretch of water. Souvenir shopping and suprising lack of hassle in the citys bazaar's. A late night boat accross for one last visit to "Asia" with Meze and beer to complete our month in Turkey.
Tasty Gozleme on the side of the motorway. Kadir's tree house's, which are thankfully waterproof as the overnight storm that hit was vicious. A long days walking through the Ta Phrom like Olypmpos ruins. Through to the laid back beachside town of Cirali and onto the mysterious combusitble gases of Chimaera. Beers around the campfire and a long walk to the toliet at 2am.
Kas
Small fishing village whose restaurant scene didnt really cater to our budget. However the best Meatball sandwich I have ever had. Strolling around the harbour with fishermen mending nets, Lycian Tombs and late evening sunshine on another Roman Theatre.
Fethiye
The perfect mix between modern Turkey and Tourism (unlike Ovacik 10k up the road). Brilliant views over the Marina from Tan Pension. The unrivalled hospitality at Tan Pension and the endless cups of tea. A wrong turn and rain putting paid to an afternoon walk on the Lycian Way in the direction of the 2000 abandoned houses in Kayakoy. Quite simply the best Kebab in Turkey the (Pasa Special) at Pasa Kebab. Two days later the novel meal in the fish market. Purchase the fish then give it to the chef and have it cooked in front of you. Shame about the 45 minute unexplained delay.
The Lycain Way
One of the best beaches at Oludeniz Lagoon, white sands and crystal clear waters. Brilliant views from up high on the Lycain Way looking back to Oludeniz with paragliders at touching distance. Small villages, stunning sea vistas and no tourists on the trek. If only all of Turkey was like that ! George House in Faralya, log cabin to sleep in and organic food all grown on the premises to eat. Not to mention the laid back hosts. The death defying track down to Butterfly Valley for a swim on the deserted beach (bar the skinng dipping Germans). Lunch at Mama's restaurant in Kabak our first stop on day two. Big vegetarian meal accompanied by heavenly yougurt and honey. A long climb in the direction of Alinca then retracing our steps to Fethiye by bus.
Pamukkale
Friendly although a tad contrived hosts at Hotel Weise Burg. Sinead did get her hands on amazing Gozleme straight from the fire courtesy of our host. An expensive excursion to the brilliant white calcium full tavertines. Further up to the healing town of Hierapolis. The large Necropolis inside indicates the magical healings success rate. Brilliant views from the Theatre down to Pamukkale and valley below.
Selcuk
The bustling Sunday market full of locals stocking up on delicious fruit and vege. Decent fare and cheap beers never fail to impress when on a budget. Storks nesting on the Byzantine aqueducts. The single pillar from the Temple of Artemis giving an indication to the size of former wonder of the ancient world. Turkey's number one attraction Ephesus the former capital of Western Asia Minor. The best example of a Roman town we have seen thus far. Another impressive theatre and facade of the Library of Celsus. Also the best quote on tour by of course a British package tourist " I thought this place would be better, I mean it is just a pile of rocks."
Bergama
One of our favourite lodging's at Odyssey House a restored Ottoman construction. One of the few people to walk the 7k up to the once mighty Greek Acropolis of Pergamon. Brilliant views to the town and valley below. The centre piece being the Temple of Trajan which was built so it could be seen from the town below. The 10,00 seat theatre was built into the hill and was impossibly steep. A wander through the Old Town backstreets to sight Galen's famous Asclepion. Stupidly paying to enter the enormous Red Basilica the views from outside were the same as inside. Nonetheless a huge Temple dedicated to Egyptian gods.
Cannakkale
Bit of a mission bus wise put paid to our proposed visit to Troy. A photo next to the Trojan Horse from Hollywood fame tempered the blow. Sought shelter in the well constructed War Museum. Home to the Nusret mine layer of WW1 fame, explanations of the naval campaign on the 18th of March 1915 and the ANZAC and Allied landings on the 25th of April. A documentary on Gallipoli and Mel Gibson in the move "Gallipoli" prepared us for our tour the next day. A so so tour of the battlefields and memorials. Great experience to piece together such and important chapter in NZ and Australian history. I will return one day though and complete the story.
Instanbul
Brilliant bus from Cannakale crossing the Dardanelles and following the Sea of Mamaras into the sprawling capital. Sadly disbelief at our four bed dorm in the basement of our hostel also accomodating two staff members. The A list sights of Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia. Disappointment at renovation affected Suleyman Cami. Tea in the afternoon sun in one of Istanbul's tea gardens. No dinner so we could afford beer and Raki along the pumping Nevizade street in the brilliant Beyoglu district. Yogurt and coffee watching Istanbul drift by aboard the Bosphorus ferry. A peak at the mansions that line the famous stretch of water. Souvenir shopping and suprising lack of hassle in the citys bazaar's. A late night boat accross for one last visit to "Asia" with Meze and beer to complete our month in Turkey.
Thursday, April 2, 2009
Turkey
Antakya
Our Turkish city of firsts. First Otogar (bus station), Servis, Doner Kebab, Efes, Turkish Breakfast (tomato, cucumber, olives, bread, salted cheese). Tidy little town in the grips of local elections. Surrounded by mountains and a stones throw from Syria.
Sanliurfa
The furtherest we ventured east. A traditional town, a throw back to Syria. Pilgrim town where Abraham hid from King Nimrod and Job lived in a cave waiting for God. The beautiful Golbasi. A garden comemorating Abraham's story where God turned the coals Nimrod put him on into fish and the fire into water. Butcher's street with carcasses hanging everywhere.
Gaziantap
One word Baklava !! The home of it and reputably the best in the world at Imam Cagdas. Interesting story of Antep's rebellion against colonisation. The impressive Mosaic Museum housing the mysterious Gypsy Girl. A pleasant cup of Tea in a converted Hamam, with Turkısh folk music in the background.
Kayseri
A cold spot wıth snow on the ground. Set against the backdrop of Mt Erciyes and home to Turkish Pastrami. A garlic tasting version at that. Our fırst taste of carpet sellers resulting in a tour around the Bazaar and Caravaniseri.
Goreme
Snow covered lunar landscape. Our very own cave for three nights. The distinct town of Goreme with numerous pension built in the rocks. A long tour to the main sights of Cappadocia. Derinkuyu the largest underground city, 8 stories and 55m under the ground. A small hike in the Ihlara valley a canyon like expanse. Lunch in the valley on the banks of the Melendiz Syu river. A leisurely day hiking the Rose and Red canyons, the names aptly describing the landscape. Finally the Goreme open air museum. A collection of Byzantine churches dug into the hills. Some with vivid frescoes.
Konya
Two words "Whirling Dervishes." The Islamic brotherhood of Mevlana, a brilliant student of Islamic Theology. A spiritual visit to his Masoleum (even for me). The cleanest Hotel in the Middle East at Ulusan Hotel. Toasted sandwiches for breakfast a tasty touch.
Antalya
Our first sight of the Mediteranean and what a backdrop with snow covered mountains hovering over the pebble beaches. Hotel Oscar and our Half Board experience. Eating way too much from the buffet. But making the most of the incredible array of Meze. Fanatastic excavations from Perge in the Antayla Museum. Including a large array of Sarcophogus and Greek God statues. A huge black cloud blocking the sun as we went for a dip in the cool waters. Expensive beers in the Roman Harbour and possible the worst boat trip in the world. Thankfully we aren't that gullible. Bitte Scheon as we wandered the manicured old town.
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