Syrıa

Damascus
Social accomodation at Al Rahemı, where our room backed out onto the communal area. A visit to the underwhelming Natıonal Museum, the only redeemıng feature being the exhibit of the worlds oldest alphabet from Urgarit. Our first mosque visit in the Umayyad Mosque deep in the old town. A bit of a laugh as Sinead dons a Burkha. Followed by a visit to Saladins Masoleum. A beer in a Christıan Quarter bar, dark, dingy and full of smoke. Gettıng lost in the Souqs fılled wıth locals shopping. Sanctuary in the Azam Palace, a decadent remnant of the Ottoman era. Day trip to Bosra and the impressive fortified theatre. The black basalt remains of the Roman Vıllage now inhabited by local families.

Palmyra
Syrias number one sight. The remains of the town smack bang in the middle of the desert. The enormous sacrificial Bel Temple. The colonaded street that once led to Damascus. Double storey tombs that are now open to dıscovery. Stunning views of the ruins, oasis and town below, from the Arabian Castle perched up a calf breaking hill.

Hama
Compact town famous for ıts Norias (Waterwheels). An afternoon stroll and an impromtu cup of tea and fresh lettuce with the Norias caretaker and famıly. Vıews from the Cıtadel and a snapshot of local history from the Hama Museum. First sight of rain for a month sadly coincıdıng with our visit to the impregnable Crusader Castle, Crac de Chevalier. First stop though was the Citadel of Miysaf former home of the Arab Assasins. Two local buses onto the hilltop Roman ruins of Appamea. A contrast to Palmyra as we were surrounded by lush green grass.

Latakia
A brief stop to the most liberal town we visited ın the Mıddle East. Coffee culture and Western styled dining rains supreme. Our first sight of girls smokıng Nargileh ın public. A friendly taxi to the historic Saladins castle. A sprawling ruin set with sheer drops on either side. The retractable draw bridge the only link with the outside world.

Aleppo
Syrias second largest cıty, a sprawling population of 4 million. More views from a castle from the Citys Citadel. Mobbed by school kids in the lavishly restored throne room. Some tourist souvenirs ın the 13th Century Ottoman Souq. Dining lıke a celebrity in a local restaurant from the famıly room.Sampling some of Aleppos renowned kebabs. An overpriced day trıp to the Basilica of St Simeon. The site where St Simeon sat atop 18m pillars to be closer to God ! A brilliantly preserved Byzantine church with views over the rocky landscape below. A bizarre place indeed.

Jordan

Aqaba
First stop in Jordan on the Red Sea. The enormous Movenpick Resort. Jordanians holiday by the sea. Numerous glass boat tours. An impromtu tour around a Jordanian bakery with Pita bread to taste. Laid back feel with football fans celebrating on the street. A visit to the old Crusader Castle later conquered by Laurence of Arabia.

Wadi Rum
An overnight stay in the desert in our very own tent for the night. Complete with an amazing buffet dinner of Mezze and Kofta. A six hour hike through the desert, hard work in the sun without sufficient water. Taking in Laurence of Arabia's spring, a canyon and Bedouin tents. Topped off by a scramble through a deep ravine. An amazing landscape, rugged hills and different coloured desert sands.

Wadi Musa-Petra
An unfortunate start with a cancelled bus and resulting 40 dinar taxi to Petra. Hitch hiking to Small Petra which we had to ourselves. Also a visit to the oldest village (Bedaya) in the Middle East. A ride back to Wadi Musa with the New Zealand lady who wrote Married to a Bedouin, who still lives in Petra! 30th birthday celebrations hiking around the Rose Tinted City, former home to the mighty Nabatean dynasty. The 1.2k long Siq with The Treasury magically appearing, views from the High Place of Sacrifice, the massive Monastery, Roman Theatre, The Royal Tombs (Palace Tomb and the Urn Tomb), Colonaded street, the list goes on! Very sore legs as we conquered just about every peak in the region.

Madaba
Bus to the Amman turnoff then another hithed ride to town. Home of the Mosaics including the Mosaic Map in St Georges church. Day trip to Mt Nebo where Moses saw the promised land and also died. Onto Bethany beyond the Jordan where John the Baptist baptised Jesus, literally a stones throw from the Israeli border. Finally bobbing in the Dead Sea, a truly memorable experience.

Amman
Final stop in Jordan. A day spent visiting the Citadel with the impressive National Archaelogical Museum housing reputably the oldest sculptures in the world. Followed by the enormous Roman Theatre smack bang in the middle of Downtown Amman. Legendary Turkish Pizza, Felafel sandwiches and fresh juice. A day excursion to the best preserved Roman city outside Italy in Jerash.

Egypt

Cairo
The amzing nine Pyramids of Giza. The oldest stone monument in the world- at Saqqara. Stepped in shape. Dahshur and the Red Pyramid- Kafre father's. A look inside to see the intricate construction. The bent pyramid that went slightly wrong in the distance.
Tutenkahmens 11kg mask in the Egyptian Museum.
Overnight bomb in the labrynth that is Khan el Khalili market.
Crosses on Christian Churches in the Coptic area, a strange sight indeed.
Overnight sleeper to Aswan.

Aswan
Felucca ride skippered by our Nubian guide. Friendship then anger when the tip wasnt forth coming.
The impressive Nubian Museum with an interesting piece on the relocation of Abu Simbel.
The six hour return journey to Abu Simbel only a further 80k to the Sudanese border. The twenty metre high Temple built by Ramses the 2nd. With the ten metre high Temple of Hathor next door featruing his wife Nefertari.
Sinead's birthday ruined by my dodgy stomach, yet again!!
Local ferry to the Tombs ofthe Nobles accross the Nile for great views back to the city.
Constant hassle on the riverfront and Souq

Luxor
Bike hire and a trip to the Temple of Hatsheput. A short ride to the incredible Valley of the Kings. Sixty tombs of great Pharoahs and nobles. Impeccable facades and designs.
A visit to the Temple of Karnak the largest Egyptian excavation site.
A dodgy Hotel with shifty hosts. Beers and brekie on the roof made it bearable.
The 17 hour bus mission to Dahab.

Dahab
A backpacker Oasis and a welcome rest from the rest of Egpyt. Breakfast on the beach with the flies and stray cats. World class snorkelling at the Lighthouse reef and unbelievably built up Blue Hole.
A sunset trip to the snow covered Mt Sinai. An easy 2 hour hike to the 2282m high summit for stunning views of the barren landscape. Sadly a cloudy evening ruling out a decent sunset.

Nuweiba
Beach huts on our very own slice of paradise. Our friendly Sudanese host Mohammed who cooked us both brekkie and dinner. The nightmare that is the slow ferry to Jordan. Two hours waiting on the boat then unable to get off once docked !