Friday, February 6, 2009

27 Weekends (part 9)







Italy, Cinque Terre, Tuscany and Umbria Sept 08
Back in Pisa for a night chilling in the main square with the Italians who just tend to stand around chatting. First coffee of the trip and a pastry for breakie. Reunion with the family on the train to Levanto. First glimpses of the Cinque Terre towns. Well positioned apartment in Levanto town, five minutes to the beach. First run along the cliff top paths and naturally a seafood dinner. Running the cliffs through the five towns, Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and a welcomed swim at Riomaggiore. Pizza in Manarola and John struggling up the steps to Corniglia. Rain and a beer in Vernazza. Train up the coast to Santa Margherita Ligure and boat over to Portofino. €7 beers in the sun served by Italy's most arrogant waiter. Bus along the coast past the numerous mansions. On the road after a brief stop at the leaning tower. First stop Casole d Elsa and a surprise over our luxurious apartment. Our very own restaurant how good is steak, rocket and parmesan? John taking a tumble the following night to the town proper, my mac light not cutting the mustard on the rocky path. First hilltop town stop at the completely walled town of Monteriggioni with its short walk on the walls. Driving in circles looking for a park in Sienna. Impressive lunch at a Lonely Planet guided Osteria. Imagining the horse race around the Piazza del Campo. Sinead and Helen draped in shawls in the black and white striped Sienna Cathedral. Views and photos from the East wall of the unbuilt new cathedral. Hilltop town day, the cold wind in Volterra and stumbling over an active jail, the 14 towers of San Gimignano tourist town. First wine tasting of the day with my balcony in the sun. Onward to Grieve in Chianti for wine tasting via a pre paid card and a snack at the famous Macelleria. Stunning views and more tasting in Volpaia before a lesson in Balsamic vinegar in Radda in Chianti. Direction Umbria and day two of hilltop towns. A Brunello in Montalcino in the fortress of course, Pecorino cheese in the town of Pienza, steep steps and roads result in a glass of wine and charchuterie snack in Montepulciano. Our rural retreat in Citta Del Pieve Umbria. A medieval dinner in a tucked away restaurant. My delight in ordering a block of Parmigiana Cheese and disgust when it was grated. John on the BBQ and the huge feed of steak. The view of Lake Trasimeno from the fort in Castiglione del Lago. Sampling some local produce and buying the old man some Grappa. The incredible St Francis cathederal with the two churches. The magnificent frescoes. The emotion of St Francis resting place under the Cathedral. Delicious Bruschetta in a quaint Osteria in Spello. Getting lost in search of Roman ruins. The incredible facade on Orvieto Cathedral. The underground tunnels and houses of Orvieto where Pigeons where bred for food. Lunch in a converted cave thanks to Ethel. Successfully navigating the rental car in downtown Rome.

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