Syrıa

Damascus
Social accomodation at Al Rahemı, where our room backed out onto the communal area. A visit to the underwhelming Natıonal Museum, the only redeemıng feature being the exhibit of the worlds oldest alphabet from Urgarit. Our first mosque visit in the Umayyad Mosque deep in the old town. A bit of a laugh as Sinead dons a Burkha. Followed by a visit to Saladins Masoleum. A beer in a Christıan Quarter bar, dark, dingy and full of smoke. Gettıng lost in the Souqs fılled wıth locals shopping. Sanctuary in the Azam Palace, a decadent remnant of the Ottoman era. Day trip to Bosra and the impressive fortified theatre. The black basalt remains of the Roman Vıllage now inhabited by local families.

Palmyra
Syrias number one sight. The remains of the town smack bang in the middle of the desert. The enormous sacrificial Bel Temple. The colonaded street that once led to Damascus. Double storey tombs that are now open to dıscovery. Stunning views of the ruins, oasis and town below, from the Arabian Castle perched up a calf breaking hill.

Hama
Compact town famous for ıts Norias (Waterwheels). An afternoon stroll and an impromtu cup of tea and fresh lettuce with the Norias caretaker and famıly. Vıews from the Cıtadel and a snapshot of local history from the Hama Museum. First sight of rain for a month sadly coincıdıng with our visit to the impregnable Crusader Castle, Crac de Chevalier. First stop though was the Citadel of Miysaf former home of the Arab Assasins. Two local buses onto the hilltop Roman ruins of Appamea. A contrast to Palmyra as we were surrounded by lush green grass.

Latakia
A brief stop to the most liberal town we visited ın the Mıddle East. Coffee culture and Western styled dining rains supreme. Our first sight of girls smokıng Nargileh ın public. A friendly taxi to the historic Saladins castle. A sprawling ruin set with sheer drops on either side. The retractable draw bridge the only link with the outside world.

Aleppo
Syrias second largest cıty, a sprawling population of 4 million. More views from a castle from the Citys Citadel. Mobbed by school kids in the lavishly restored throne room. Some tourist souvenirs ın the 13th Century Ottoman Souq. Dining lıke a celebrity in a local restaurant from the famıly room.Sampling some of Aleppos renowned kebabs. An overpriced day trıp to the Basilica of St Simeon. The site where St Simeon sat atop 18m pillars to be closer to God ! A brilliantly preserved Byzantine church with views over the rocky landscape below. A bizarre place indeed.