Romania

Bucharest
Expect the worst and you are always surprised. No packs of dogs, yet tree lined roads and more grand buildings. Hardly the image we had in our minds. Two fantastic museums in the Peasant and Village museums. The later an open air museum full of traditional dwellings from all over Romania. Ceausescu's Palace the world's second largest building at the end of Romania's own Champs Elysees. The enormous Cismigiu park with lake for ice skating in winter. More French like icon's in the Triumphal Arch and Gare di Nord.

Sinaia
Our first taste of Transylvania. A real ski resort feel. Snow still high on the peaks curtailing our hiking activities. A hike to 1400m for great views of the valley and town. Then a cable car to 2000m for an hike in the middle of an Electrical storm with falling snow. The incredibly lavish Peles castle home of the first king of Romania Carol 1. A visit to the less impressive Pelisor Castle, Queen Maria's Art Nouveau brain child.

Brasov
Into bear country, our obsession begins !! The hilarious Hollywood style Brasov sign. Breaking yet another sweet to reach it. Amazing views over the medieval old town below. The spacious Piata Sfatului, framed by the Black Church. Full of Anatolian rugs, the black fire damage which gave the church its name was long gone. The interesting guild towers, still standing watch over the city. Dusty Zarnesti gateway to the beautiful Piatra Craiului national park. Two days hiking in Cold Mountain territory. Two lunches in the dramatically set Cabana Camatiuri, two St Bernard dogs for company. Scaling the sweaty parm inducing climb behind the Cabana to 1830m for stunning views way below.

Magura
A back breaking hike from the bus stop to Villa Park, fully ladden with backpack and supplies. Two nights of seclusion in our farm/moutain stay. Fresh cows milk every morning for breakfast. Dirt roads linking the villages, bridged by horse and cart, a real step back in time. A visit to Bran Castle inspiration behind Dracula's castle. A long hike back through farm land with stray dog in tow.

Sibiu
A short stop to the impeccably preserved 2007 European capital of culture. More guild towers and medievil defenses. Obligatory hike up the council tower for the best view in town. Impressive gothic rooftop of the Evangelical Church. A real slow pace of life converging on the Piata Mare.

Sibiel
An unforgettable night with our quirky host Sorian at Pension Mioritica. Impeccable garden with out houses full of memorabilia, including the brilliant communist room. Three bridges spanning the gushing stream. A pleasant stroll to chilli monastery, then a pointless hike a wrong turn resulting in a dog chase in the surrounding hills. Sibiel's number one attraction the best collection of glass icons in the world!

Sighisoara
Vlad Tepes (Dracula's) home town for 4 years. Quintessential Transylvania, a delightful citadel minus the manicured feel. An intriguing mix of museums housed in the clock tower. Torture techniques middle age armaments and former physicians scary instruments. Not to mention more guild towers, still standing proud. Out into the countryside yet again to Brateiu and a visit to a fortified church, of a former Saxon village.

Cluj
Aimless walking through the pleasant pedestrian streets in search of a bed for the night. Followed by a visit to the only open tourist attraction, the botanical gardens. First taste of Chinese for at least three months.