Dubrovnik
Cruise ship central. Impressive fortifications and architecture of the old town. A complete circuit of the city walls. First swim in the crystal clear Adriatic. A day trip to Lokrum Island, Fort ruins, a monastery, mating peacocks, swimming and another high plunge.
Hvar Island
Dino the man the legend and his incredible apartment. Plenty of beers on the balcony looking down on a setting sun over the town. Idling the day away in our 5 horse power boat. Navigating the crystal clear Adriatic waters of the Pakheri Islands. Backward flip competitions, seafood, ice cream and plenty of swimming.
Split
Wandering Diocletians Palace an eclectic mix of Roman ruins, apartments and bars. One final swim with the locals.
Zagreb
Confusion over tram stops resulting in a two hour mission to find the Hostel. Evening walk through the Austro Hungarian arcitecture. City views up Golton Hill and a great fight on the way home.
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Bosnia and Hercegovina
Mostar
Our introduction to the mindless fighting from the early 90s. Bullet holes and shells of buildings remain untouched. The family feel at legendary Majda's Rooms. A distinctly Turkish air wandering the old town. The call to prayer slipping back into our day to day consciousness. Mostar's crowning glory the Stari Most. Serious meat sweats from our riverside mixed grill. Cruising around the Bosnian countryside with Bata on "The Tour". A snapshot of Bosnias past mixed in with rope swings and a 12 metre plunge off a railway bridge. Herbal Tea, the strange pilgrimage site of Madjegorge, ancient fortifcations at Pocitelj and the Dervish lodge at Blagaj. All Cyrillic on road signs blanked out.
Sarajevo
Bosnia's third tourist attraction the stunning railway from Mostar to Sarajevo, hugging the Neretva river. Strong Coffee, Mosques and Hans in the Turkish quarter. The infamous Latin Bridge site of Franz Ferdinand's assasination. Sarajevo Brewery, nice bar but expensive beer. Impressive display at the History Museum on the Sarajevo Siege. Graveyards dotting the suburbs. Too much Cevapici for dinner. 25 metre walk through the original Sarajevo Tunnel. A seemingly different world on the Serbian Suburb of the town. Views from the hills where the Serbs held the town hostage.
Our introduction to the mindless fighting from the early 90s. Bullet holes and shells of buildings remain untouched. The family feel at legendary Majda's Rooms. A distinctly Turkish air wandering the old town. The call to prayer slipping back into our day to day consciousness. Mostar's crowning glory the Stari Most. Serious meat sweats from our riverside mixed grill. Cruising around the Bosnian countryside with Bata on "The Tour". A snapshot of Bosnias past mixed in with rope swings and a 12 metre plunge off a railway bridge. Herbal Tea, the strange pilgrimage site of Madjegorge, ancient fortifcations at Pocitelj and the Dervish lodge at Blagaj. All Cyrillic on road signs blanked out.
Sarajevo
Bosnia's third tourist attraction the stunning railway from Mostar to Sarajevo, hugging the Neretva river. Strong Coffee, Mosques and Hans in the Turkish quarter. The infamous Latin Bridge site of Franz Ferdinand's assasination. Sarajevo Brewery, nice bar but expensive beer. Impressive display at the History Museum on the Sarajevo Siege. Graveyards dotting the suburbs. Too much Cevapici for dinner. 25 metre walk through the original Sarajevo Tunnel. A seemingly different world on the Serbian Suburb of the town. Views from the hills where the Serbs held the town hostage.
Monday, June 8, 2009
Montenegro
Zabljak
Snow in June ?? Hotel Zabljak, straight out of 1960 Yugoslavia and hasn't changed a bit. Three meals of pork and copious amounts of oil. The spectacular scenery of the Durmitor National Park. Stunning Black Lake framed by snow capped peaks and pine forest. The brooding rounded mass of Mt Meded. A successful summit followed by a hair raising decent. Europes largest Canyon the Tara Gorge, impossibly steep cliffs and turquoise water.
Budva
Impressive thunderstorms. A well kept old town, with a distinct maritime feel. Numerous beaches on the 5 k walk to Sveti Stefan. A former fishing village now the home to the rich and famous. Swimming in its shadows in the crystal clear Adriatic.
Kotor
Southern Eu ropes largest Fjord and a relatively undiscovered stretch of water. Underground rivers bubbling under the authentic feeling Stari Grad. A days kayaking to Perast. A sleepy village home to a man made island. Next time we wont forget the suncream.
Herceg Novi
Our introduction to the phenomenon that is the concrete beach.
Snow in June ?? Hotel Zabljak, straight out of 1960 Yugoslavia and hasn't changed a bit. Three meals of pork and copious amounts of oil. The spectacular scenery of the Durmitor National Park. Stunning Black Lake framed by snow capped peaks and pine forest. The brooding rounded mass of Mt Meded. A successful summit followed by a hair raising decent. Europes largest Canyon the Tara Gorge, impossibly steep cliffs and turquoise water.
Budva
Impressive thunderstorms. A well kept old town, with a distinct maritime feel. Numerous beaches on the 5 k walk to Sveti Stefan. A former fishing village now the home to the rich and famous. Swimming in its shadows in the crystal clear Adriatic.
Kotor
Southern Eu ropes largest Fjord and a relatively undiscovered stretch of water. Underground rivers bubbling under the authentic feeling Stari Grad. A days kayaking to Perast. A sleepy village home to a man made island. Next time we wont forget the suncream.
Herceg Novi
Our introduction to the phenomenon that is the concrete beach.
Thursday, May 28, 2009
Serbia
Novi Sad
A traditional dining experience at Bela Ladja, sitting in the seats where the Einstein family supposedly dined. More views to the Danube below from the Citadel. The novel surroundings for the Exit Festival. Enormous thunder and lightning during our visit to the regional museum, with added intrigue and insight from the quirky curator.
Belgrade
For those in any doubt, Belgrade isn't a pretty city! Gritty Communist Architecture at its best. The memorable 25th of May museum, home to innumerable gifts to the Yugoslavian leader Tito. Along with what has to be the best baton collection in the world. A visit to his self designed grave. An impressive collection of arms at the military museum, including a somewhat humorous (to us) display from the 1999 Nato bombing. The feel of a real fortress above the confluence of the Suva and Danube rivers. Traffic jams, trolley buses and grills. The staple of a authentic visit to Belgrade.
A traditional dining experience at Bela Ladja, sitting in the seats where the Einstein family supposedly dined. More views to the Danube below from the Citadel. The novel surroundings for the Exit Festival. Enormous thunder and lightning during our visit to the regional museum, with added intrigue and insight from the quirky curator.
Belgrade
For those in any doubt, Belgrade isn't a pretty city! Gritty Communist Architecture at its best. The memorable 25th of May museum, home to innumerable gifts to the Yugoslavian leader Tito. Along with what has to be the best baton collection in the world. A visit to his self designed grave. An impressive collection of arms at the military museum, including a somewhat humorous (to us) display from the 1999 Nato bombing. The feel of a real fortress above the confluence of the Suva and Danube rivers. Traffic jams, trolley buses and grills. The staple of a authentic visit to Belgrade.
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Slovakia
Strbske Pleso
Feeling like a member of the Czechoslovakia ski jump team staying in Hotel Fis. Directly under the two enormous ski jumps. An introductory hike to the Tatras, around Strbske Pleso (lake) and up through the snow to Chata Sloisko Pod.
Tatranske Lomnica
Suburb londgings in our wood cabin Pension Daniella. Three days hiking in the region, two six hour days and as Sinead said an epic eight hour effort. Stunning peaks, frozen lakes, snow filled valleys, snow melt filled waterfalls and rivers. Not to mention the Chata's that dot the trails. Questions abound as too how they managed to put a cable car up the precipitous peak of Lomincky Stit. Unbeleivable devastation caused to the pine forests by the 2004 storm. The wind would have truly been something too behold. Swiss like trains connecting the tiny alpine villages. A bit of a laugh on Tatra Bob.
Bratislava
The impressive fortifications at Devin Castle. Great views to the Danube and Austria across the water. The eyesore UFO bridge, with the ubiquitous communist housing in the background. Impressive displays and moving stories at the brand new Jewish Museum. The under construction Bratislava Castle. Cobbled streets and the sad sight of named polo shirts with English accents in the Old Town. Did I mention the 90 cent beer.
Feeling like a member of the Czechoslovakia ski jump team staying in Hotel Fis. Directly under the two enormous ski jumps. An introductory hike to the Tatras, around Strbske Pleso (lake) and up through the snow to Chata Sloisko Pod.
Tatranske Lomnica
Suburb londgings in our wood cabin Pension Daniella. Three days hiking in the region, two six hour days and as Sinead said an epic eight hour effort. Stunning peaks, frozen lakes, snow filled valleys, snow melt filled waterfalls and rivers. Not to mention the Chata's that dot the trails. Questions abound as too how they managed to put a cable car up the precipitous peak of Lomincky Stit. Unbeleivable devastation caused to the pine forests by the 2004 storm. The wind would have truly been something too behold. Swiss like trains connecting the tiny alpine villages. A bit of a laugh on Tatra Bob.
Bratislava
The impressive fortifications at Devin Castle. Great views to the Danube and Austria across the water. The eyesore UFO bridge, with the ubiquitous communist housing in the background. Impressive displays and moving stories at the brand new Jewish Museum. The under construction Bratislava Castle. Cobbled streets and the sad sight of named polo shirts with English accents in the Old Town. Did I mention the 90 cent beer.
Hungary
Miskolc
Nice town but please tell me where the accomodation is? One word that will stay in my mind and taste buds for a long time though "Megaburger!"
Nice town but please tell me where the accomodation is? One word that will stay in my mind and taste buds for a long time though "Megaburger!"
Budapest
Crossing into Hungary via the Maria Valeria bridge into Eztergom. Backpacks on during a visit to Eztergom's basilica, the largest cathedral in the country. Great views to the Danube below. Action packed three days in the pomp of Austro-Hungarian architecture in the suburbs of Buda and Pest. The largest synagogue in Europe, attractive Moorish appearance. Touching exhibits of the Jewish deportation. The impressive Terror museum tackling the dual occupation of the Nazis and Communists. Housed in the former headquarters of the Arrow Cross, AVO and AVH. Amazing displays, some rooms with a movie set feel. Two bath visits, the Art Nouveau Gellert baths and the Szechenyi baths surrounded by an inner city park. A visit to the unique Momento Park, home to an eclectic array of Communist Statues and other memorabilia. A highlight was the 6m tall Communist soldier that once stood atop of Gellert Hill. Goulash served authentically as a soup. Stunning sunset views atop Gellert Hill. The lifestyles of the rich and famous at Castle Hill, Budapest's former seat of monarchy and medieval heart.
Friday, May 8, 2009
Romania
Bucharest
Expect the worst and you are always surprised. No packs of dogs, yet tree lined roads and more grand buildings. Hardly the image we had in our minds. Two fantastic museums in the Peasant and Village museums. The later an open air museum full of traditional dwellings from all over Romania. Ceausescu's Palace the world's second largest building at the end of Romania's own Champs Elysees. The enormous Cismigiu park with lake for ice skating in winter. More French like icon's in the Triumphal Arch and Gare di Nord.
Sinaia
Our first taste of Transylvania. A real ski resort feel. Snow still high on the peaks curtailing our hiking activities. A hike to 1400m for great views of the valley and town. Then a cable car to 2000m for an hike in the middle of an Electrical storm with falling snow. The incredibly lavish Peles castle home of the first king of Romania Carol 1. A visit to the less impressive Pelisor Castle, Queen Maria's Art Nouveau brain child.
Brasov
Into bear country, our obsession begins !! The hilarious Hollywood style Brasov sign. Breaking yet another sweet to reach it. Amazing views over the medieval old town below. The spacious Piata Sfatului, framed by the Black Church. Full of Anatolian rugs, the black fire damage which gave the church its name was long gone. The interesting guild towers, still standing watch over the city. Dusty Zarnesti gateway to the beautiful Piatra Craiului national park. Two days hiking in Cold Mountain territory. Two lunches in the dramatically set Cabana Camatiuri, two St Bernard dogs for company. Scaling the sweaty parm inducing climb behind the Cabana to 1830m for stunning views way below.
Magura
A back breaking hike from the bus stop to Villa Park, fully ladden with backpack and supplies. Two nights of seclusion in our farm/moutain stay. Fresh cows milk every morning for breakfast. Dirt roads linking the villages, bridged by horse and cart, a real step back in time. A visit to Bran Castle inspiration behind Dracula's castle. A long hike back through farm land with stray dog in tow.
Sibiu
A short stop to the impeccably preserved 2007 European capital of culture. More guild towers and medievil defenses. Obligatory hike up the council tower for the best view in town. Impressive gothic rooftop of the Evangelical Church. A real slow pace of life converging on the Piata Mare.
Sibiel
An unforgettable night with our quirky host Sorian at Pension Mioritica. Impeccable garden with out houses full of memorabilia, including the brilliant communist room. Three bridges spanning the gushing stream. A pleasant stroll to chilli monastery, then a pointless hike a wrong turn resulting in a dog chase in the surrounding hills. Sibiel's number one attraction the best collection of glass icons in the world!
Sighisoara
Vlad Tepes (Dracula's) home town for 4 years. Quintessential Transylvania, a delightful citadel minus the manicured feel. An intriguing mix of museums housed in the clock tower. Torture techniques middle age armaments and former physicians scary instruments. Not to mention more guild towers, still standing proud. Out into the countryside yet again to Brateiu and a visit to a fortified church, of a former Saxon village.
Cluj
Aimless walking through the pleasant pedestrian streets in search of a bed for the night. Followed by a visit to the only open tourist attraction, the botanical gardens. First taste of Chinese for at least three months.
Expect the worst and you are always surprised. No packs of dogs, yet tree lined roads and more grand buildings. Hardly the image we had in our minds. Two fantastic museums in the Peasant and Village museums. The later an open air museum full of traditional dwellings from all over Romania. Ceausescu's Palace the world's second largest building at the end of Romania's own Champs Elysees. The enormous Cismigiu park with lake for ice skating in winter. More French like icon's in the Triumphal Arch and Gare di Nord.
Sinaia
Our first taste of Transylvania. A real ski resort feel. Snow still high on the peaks curtailing our hiking activities. A hike to 1400m for great views of the valley and town. Then a cable car to 2000m for an hike in the middle of an Electrical storm with falling snow. The incredibly lavish Peles castle home of the first king of Romania Carol 1. A visit to the less impressive Pelisor Castle, Queen Maria's Art Nouveau brain child.
Brasov
Into bear country, our obsession begins !! The hilarious Hollywood style Brasov sign. Breaking yet another sweet to reach it. Amazing views over the medieval old town below. The spacious Piata Sfatului, framed by the Black Church. Full of Anatolian rugs, the black fire damage which gave the church its name was long gone. The interesting guild towers, still standing watch over the city. Dusty Zarnesti gateway to the beautiful Piatra Craiului national park. Two days hiking in Cold Mountain territory. Two lunches in the dramatically set Cabana Camatiuri, two St Bernard dogs for company. Scaling the sweaty parm inducing climb behind the Cabana to 1830m for stunning views way below.
Magura
A back breaking hike from the bus stop to Villa Park, fully ladden with backpack and supplies. Two nights of seclusion in our farm/moutain stay. Fresh cows milk every morning for breakfast. Dirt roads linking the villages, bridged by horse and cart, a real step back in time. A visit to Bran Castle inspiration behind Dracula's castle. A long hike back through farm land with stray dog in tow.
Sibiu
A short stop to the impeccably preserved 2007 European capital of culture. More guild towers and medievil defenses. Obligatory hike up the council tower for the best view in town. Impressive gothic rooftop of the Evangelical Church. A real slow pace of life converging on the Piata Mare.
Sibiel
An unforgettable night with our quirky host Sorian at Pension Mioritica. Impeccable garden with out houses full of memorabilia, including the brilliant communist room. Three bridges spanning the gushing stream. A pleasant stroll to chilli monastery, then a pointless hike a wrong turn resulting in a dog chase in the surrounding hills. Sibiel's number one attraction the best collection of glass icons in the world!
Sighisoara
Vlad Tepes (Dracula's) home town for 4 years. Quintessential Transylvania, a delightful citadel minus the manicured feel. An intriguing mix of museums housed in the clock tower. Torture techniques middle age armaments and former physicians scary instruments. Not to mention more guild towers, still standing proud. Out into the countryside yet again to Brateiu and a visit to a fortified church, of a former Saxon village.
Cluj
Aimless walking through the pleasant pedestrian streets in search of a bed for the night. Followed by a visit to the only open tourist attraction, the botanical gardens. First taste of Chinese for at least three months.
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