Bulgaria

Plovdiv

First stop in Eastern Europe and a step back wealth wise from Turkey. Delightful old town full of restored wooden buildings. Centre piece being the Roman Theatre. Built on seven hills, great views from the Hill of Liberators. Huge surprise at the cost of beer. Bulgarian cuisine Beef tongue and tripe stew.Toy train like journey onto Bansko.

Blagoevgrad

Bulgaria's uni town. Full of trendy bars and cafes. Tiny little old town again full of restored wooden buildings. Comically rude ticket attendants at the bus and train stations. Comparative lap of luxury at Hotel Fenix. Great day trip to the mountain monastery of Rila. The bastion of Bulgarian Christianity through the Ottoman years.

Melnik
Bulgaria's smallest village. Home of the Melnik grape world famous in Bulgaria for its red wine. An afternoon in the sun consuming it, from Melnik's limestone cellar. Limestone cliffs reminiscent of Cappadocia. Rozhen Monastery via the wrong trail, the race to make the bus. Church ruins above the town linked by trails, sadly accompanied by the local dog.

Sofia
Stung for 40 leva on the tram for not punching our tickets and for having a backpack. A slice of Bulgarian cuisine in one of Sofia's traditional restaurants. An afternoon visiting Sofias churches, Sveti George the oldest monument in Sofia, Alexander Nevski the church built to honour the 200,000 Russians who died fighting against the Turks for Bulgarian independence. Free drinks in McCarthys bar, 50ml shots without mixer. Dinner at the world famous in Bulgaria Happy chain. Waitresses in short skirts and tight tops. Mission out to Mt Vitosha and a wrong turn hiking in the national park.

Veliko Tarnovo
Sweet accomodation at Hostel Mostel, first seperate shower and toilet. Not to mention all inclusive dinner and beer. Beautiful old town with twin rivers at one of Bulgaria highlight towns. Peaceful hike through more lush bush to yet another monastery, Preobrazhenski. Visiting the long fall at Tsarverets Fortresses execution stone. History of the Bulgarian revolution of 1878 in the national revival museum. Another pleasant hike to Arabanasi a well restored village full of renovated Ottoman houses.