Turkey (part 2)

Olympos
Tasty Gozleme on the side of the motorway. Kadir's tree house's, which are thankfully waterproof as the overnight storm that hit was vicious. A long days walking through the Ta Phrom like Olypmpos ruins. Through to the laid back beachside town of Cirali and onto the mysterious combusitble gases of Chimaera. Beers around the campfire and a long walk to the toliet at 2am.

Kas
Small fishing village whose restaurant scene didnt really cater to our budget. However the best Meatball sandwich I have ever had. Strolling around the harbour with fishermen mending nets, Lycian Tombs and late evening sunshine on another Roman Theatre.

Fethiye
The perfect mix between modern Turkey and Tourism (unlike Ovacik 10k up the road). Brilliant views over the Marina from Tan Pension. The unrivalled hospitality at Tan Pension and the endless cups of tea. A wrong turn and rain putting paid to an afternoon walk on the Lycian Way in the direction of the 2000 abandoned houses in Kayakoy. Quite simply the best Kebab in Turkey the (Pasa Special) at Pasa Kebab. Two days later the novel meal in the fish market. Purchase the fish then give it to the chef and have it cooked in front of you. Shame about the 45 minute unexplained delay.

The Lycain Way
One of the best beaches at Oludeniz Lagoon, white sands and crystal clear waters. Brilliant views from up high on the Lycain Way looking back to Oludeniz with paragliders at touching distance. Small villages, stunning sea vistas and no tourists on the trek. If only all of Turkey was like that ! George House in Faralya, log cabin to sleep in and organic food all grown on the premises to eat. Not to mention the laid back hosts. The death defying track down to Butterfly Valley for a swim on the deserted beach (bar the skinng dipping Germans). Lunch at Mama's restaurant in Kabak our first stop on day two. Big vegetarian meal accompanied by heavenly yougurt and honey. A long climb in the direction of Alinca then retracing our steps to Fethiye by bus.

Pamukkale
Friendly although a tad contrived hosts at Hotel Weise Burg. Sinead did get her hands on amazing Gozleme straight from the fire courtesy of our host. An expensive excursion to the brilliant white calcium full tavertines. Further up to the healing town of Hierapolis. The large Necropolis inside indicates the magical healings success rate. Brilliant views from the Theatre down to Pamukkale and valley below.

Selcuk
The bustling Sunday market full of locals stocking up on delicious fruit and vege. Decent fare and cheap beers never fail to impress when on a budget. Storks nesting on the Byzantine aqueducts. The single pillar from the Temple of Artemis giving an indication to the size of former wonder of the ancient world. Turkey's number one attraction Ephesus the former capital of Western Asia Minor. The best example of a Roman town we have seen thus far. Another impressive theatre and facade of the Library of Celsus. Also the best quote on tour by of course a British package tourist " I thought this place would be better, I mean it is just a pile of rocks."

Bergama
One of our favourite lodging's at Odyssey House a restored Ottoman construction. One of the few people to walk the 7k up to the once mighty Greek Acropolis of Pergamon. Brilliant views to the town and valley below. The centre piece being the Temple of Trajan which was built so it could be seen from the town below. The 10,00 seat theatre was built into the hill and was impossibly steep. A wander through the Old Town backstreets to sight Galen's famous Asclepion. Stupidly paying to enter the enormous Red Basilica the views from outside were the same as inside. Nonetheless a huge Temple dedicated to Egyptian gods.

Cannakkale
Bit of a mission bus wise put paid to our proposed visit to Troy. A photo next to the Trojan Horse from Hollywood fame tempered the blow. Sought shelter in the well constructed War Museum. Home to the Nusret mine layer of WW1 fame, explanations of the naval campaign on the 18th of March 1915 and the ANZAC and Allied landings on the 25th of April. A documentary on Gallipoli and Mel Gibson in the move "Gallipoli" prepared us for our tour the next day. A so so tour of the battlefields and memorials. Great experience to piece together such and important chapter in NZ and Australian history. I will return one day though and complete the story.

Instanbul
Brilliant bus from Cannakale crossing the Dardanelles and following the Sea of Mamaras into the sprawling capital. Sadly disbelief at our four bed dorm in the basement of our hostel also accomodating two staff members. The A list sights of Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia. Disappointment at renovation affected Suleyman Cami. Tea in the afternoon sun in one of Istanbul's tea gardens. No dinner so we could afford beer and Raki along the pumping Nevizade street in the brilliant Beyoglu district. Yogurt and coffee watching Istanbul drift by aboard the Bosphorus ferry. A peak at the mansions that line the famous stretch of water. Souvenir shopping and suprising lack of hassle in the citys bazaar's. A late night boat accross for one last visit to "Asia" with Meze and beer to complete our month in Turkey.