Novi Sad
A traditional dining experience at Bela Ladja, sitting in the seats where the Einstein family supposedly dined. More views to the Danube below from the Citadel. The novel surroundings for the Exit Festival. Enormous thunder and lightning during our visit to the regional museum, with added intrigue and insight from the quirky curator.
Belgrade
For those in any doubt, Belgrade isn't a pretty city! Gritty Communist Architecture at its best. The memorable 25th of May museum, home to innumerable gifts to the Yugoslavian leader Tito. Along with what has to be the best baton collection in the world. A visit to his self designed grave. An impressive collection of arms at the military museum, including a somewhat humorous (to us) display from the 1999 Nato bombing. The feel of a real fortress above the confluence of the Suva and Danube rivers. Traffic jams, trolley buses and grills. The staple of a authentic visit to Belgrade.
Thursday, May 28, 2009
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Slovakia
Strbske Pleso
Feeling like a member of the Czechoslovakia ski jump team staying in Hotel Fis. Directly under the two enormous ski jumps. An introductory hike to the Tatras, around Strbske Pleso (lake) and up through the snow to Chata Sloisko Pod.
Tatranske Lomnica
Suburb londgings in our wood cabin Pension Daniella. Three days hiking in the region, two six hour days and as Sinead said an epic eight hour effort. Stunning peaks, frozen lakes, snow filled valleys, snow melt filled waterfalls and rivers. Not to mention the Chata's that dot the trails. Questions abound as too how they managed to put a cable car up the precipitous peak of Lomincky Stit. Unbeleivable devastation caused to the pine forests by the 2004 storm. The wind would have truly been something too behold. Swiss like trains connecting the tiny alpine villages. A bit of a laugh on Tatra Bob.
Bratislava
The impressive fortifications at Devin Castle. Great views to the Danube and Austria across the water. The eyesore UFO bridge, with the ubiquitous communist housing in the background. Impressive displays and moving stories at the brand new Jewish Museum. The under construction Bratislava Castle. Cobbled streets and the sad sight of named polo shirts with English accents in the Old Town. Did I mention the 90 cent beer.
Feeling like a member of the Czechoslovakia ski jump team staying in Hotel Fis. Directly under the two enormous ski jumps. An introductory hike to the Tatras, around Strbske Pleso (lake) and up through the snow to Chata Sloisko Pod.
Tatranske Lomnica
Suburb londgings in our wood cabin Pension Daniella. Three days hiking in the region, two six hour days and as Sinead said an epic eight hour effort. Stunning peaks, frozen lakes, snow filled valleys, snow melt filled waterfalls and rivers. Not to mention the Chata's that dot the trails. Questions abound as too how they managed to put a cable car up the precipitous peak of Lomincky Stit. Unbeleivable devastation caused to the pine forests by the 2004 storm. The wind would have truly been something too behold. Swiss like trains connecting the tiny alpine villages. A bit of a laugh on Tatra Bob.
Bratislava
The impressive fortifications at Devin Castle. Great views to the Danube and Austria across the water. The eyesore UFO bridge, with the ubiquitous communist housing in the background. Impressive displays and moving stories at the brand new Jewish Museum. The under construction Bratislava Castle. Cobbled streets and the sad sight of named polo shirts with English accents in the Old Town. Did I mention the 90 cent beer.
Hungary
Miskolc
Nice town but please tell me where the accomodation is? One word that will stay in my mind and taste buds for a long time though "Megaburger!"
Nice town but please tell me where the accomodation is? One word that will stay in my mind and taste buds for a long time though "Megaburger!"
Budapest
Crossing into Hungary via the Maria Valeria bridge into Eztergom. Backpacks on during a visit to Eztergom's basilica, the largest cathedral in the country. Great views to the Danube below. Action packed three days in the pomp of Austro-Hungarian architecture in the suburbs of Buda and Pest. The largest synagogue in Europe, attractive Moorish appearance. Touching exhibits of the Jewish deportation. The impressive Terror museum tackling the dual occupation of the Nazis and Communists. Housed in the former headquarters of the Arrow Cross, AVO and AVH. Amazing displays, some rooms with a movie set feel. Two bath visits, the Art Nouveau Gellert baths and the Szechenyi baths surrounded by an inner city park. A visit to the unique Momento Park, home to an eclectic array of Communist Statues and other memorabilia. A highlight was the 6m tall Communist soldier that once stood atop of Gellert Hill. Goulash served authentically as a soup. Stunning sunset views atop Gellert Hill. The lifestyles of the rich and famous at Castle Hill, Budapest's former seat of monarchy and medieval heart.
Friday, May 8, 2009
Romania
Bucharest
Expect the worst and you are always surprised. No packs of dogs, yet tree lined roads and more grand buildings. Hardly the image we had in our minds. Two fantastic museums in the Peasant and Village museums. The later an open air museum full of traditional dwellings from all over Romania. Ceausescu's Palace the world's second largest building at the end of Romania's own Champs Elysees. The enormous Cismigiu park with lake for ice skating in winter. More French like icon's in the Triumphal Arch and Gare di Nord.
Sinaia
Our first taste of Transylvania. A real ski resort feel. Snow still high on the peaks curtailing our hiking activities. A hike to 1400m for great views of the valley and town. Then a cable car to 2000m for an hike in the middle of an Electrical storm with falling snow. The incredibly lavish Peles castle home of the first king of Romania Carol 1. A visit to the less impressive Pelisor Castle, Queen Maria's Art Nouveau brain child.
Brasov
Into bear country, our obsession begins !! The hilarious Hollywood style Brasov sign. Breaking yet another sweet to reach it. Amazing views over the medieval old town below. The spacious Piata Sfatului, framed by the Black Church. Full of Anatolian rugs, the black fire damage which gave the church its name was long gone. The interesting guild towers, still standing watch over the city. Dusty Zarnesti gateway to the beautiful Piatra Craiului national park. Two days hiking in Cold Mountain territory. Two lunches in the dramatically set Cabana Camatiuri, two St Bernard dogs for company. Scaling the sweaty parm inducing climb behind the Cabana to 1830m for stunning views way below.
Magura
A back breaking hike from the bus stop to Villa Park, fully ladden with backpack and supplies. Two nights of seclusion in our farm/moutain stay. Fresh cows milk every morning for breakfast. Dirt roads linking the villages, bridged by horse and cart, a real step back in time. A visit to Bran Castle inspiration behind Dracula's castle. A long hike back through farm land with stray dog in tow.
Sibiu
A short stop to the impeccably preserved 2007 European capital of culture. More guild towers and medievil defenses. Obligatory hike up the council tower for the best view in town. Impressive gothic rooftop of the Evangelical Church. A real slow pace of life converging on the Piata Mare.
Sibiel
An unforgettable night with our quirky host Sorian at Pension Mioritica. Impeccable garden with out houses full of memorabilia, including the brilliant communist room. Three bridges spanning the gushing stream. A pleasant stroll to chilli monastery, then a pointless hike a wrong turn resulting in a dog chase in the surrounding hills. Sibiel's number one attraction the best collection of glass icons in the world!
Sighisoara
Vlad Tepes (Dracula's) home town for 4 years. Quintessential Transylvania, a delightful citadel minus the manicured feel. An intriguing mix of museums housed in the clock tower. Torture techniques middle age armaments and former physicians scary instruments. Not to mention more guild towers, still standing proud. Out into the countryside yet again to Brateiu and a visit to a fortified church, of a former Saxon village.
Cluj
Aimless walking through the pleasant pedestrian streets in search of a bed for the night. Followed by a visit to the only open tourist attraction, the botanical gardens. First taste of Chinese for at least three months.
Expect the worst and you are always surprised. No packs of dogs, yet tree lined roads and more grand buildings. Hardly the image we had in our minds. Two fantastic museums in the Peasant and Village museums. The later an open air museum full of traditional dwellings from all over Romania. Ceausescu's Palace the world's second largest building at the end of Romania's own Champs Elysees. The enormous Cismigiu park with lake for ice skating in winter. More French like icon's in the Triumphal Arch and Gare di Nord.
Sinaia
Our first taste of Transylvania. A real ski resort feel. Snow still high on the peaks curtailing our hiking activities. A hike to 1400m for great views of the valley and town. Then a cable car to 2000m for an hike in the middle of an Electrical storm with falling snow. The incredibly lavish Peles castle home of the first king of Romania Carol 1. A visit to the less impressive Pelisor Castle, Queen Maria's Art Nouveau brain child.
Brasov
Into bear country, our obsession begins !! The hilarious Hollywood style Brasov sign. Breaking yet another sweet to reach it. Amazing views over the medieval old town below. The spacious Piata Sfatului, framed by the Black Church. Full of Anatolian rugs, the black fire damage which gave the church its name was long gone. The interesting guild towers, still standing watch over the city. Dusty Zarnesti gateway to the beautiful Piatra Craiului national park. Two days hiking in Cold Mountain territory. Two lunches in the dramatically set Cabana Camatiuri, two St Bernard dogs for company. Scaling the sweaty parm inducing climb behind the Cabana to 1830m for stunning views way below.
Magura
A back breaking hike from the bus stop to Villa Park, fully ladden with backpack and supplies. Two nights of seclusion in our farm/moutain stay. Fresh cows milk every morning for breakfast. Dirt roads linking the villages, bridged by horse and cart, a real step back in time. A visit to Bran Castle inspiration behind Dracula's castle. A long hike back through farm land with stray dog in tow.
Sibiu
A short stop to the impeccably preserved 2007 European capital of culture. More guild towers and medievil defenses. Obligatory hike up the council tower for the best view in town. Impressive gothic rooftop of the Evangelical Church. A real slow pace of life converging on the Piata Mare.
Sibiel
An unforgettable night with our quirky host Sorian at Pension Mioritica. Impeccable garden with out houses full of memorabilia, including the brilliant communist room. Three bridges spanning the gushing stream. A pleasant stroll to chilli monastery, then a pointless hike a wrong turn resulting in a dog chase in the surrounding hills. Sibiel's number one attraction the best collection of glass icons in the world!
Sighisoara
Vlad Tepes (Dracula's) home town for 4 years. Quintessential Transylvania, a delightful citadel minus the manicured feel. An intriguing mix of museums housed in the clock tower. Torture techniques middle age armaments and former physicians scary instruments. Not to mention more guild towers, still standing proud. Out into the countryside yet again to Brateiu and a visit to a fortified church, of a former Saxon village.
Cluj
Aimless walking through the pleasant pedestrian streets in search of a bed for the night. Followed by a visit to the only open tourist attraction, the botanical gardens. First taste of Chinese for at least three months.
Monday, April 27, 2009
Macedonia
Skopje
A throw back to Turkey in Skopje's Bazaar district. Beers in a Tito inspired bar, Yugoslavia memorabilia adorning all the walls. The run down History Museum with clock stopped at 5:17 the time that the Skopje earthquake hit. The brilliant Macedonian flags. Mother Teresa's memorial, Skopje's favourite daughter.
Ohrid
Beautiful views of the lake from Sveti Trojan. Cobbled streets, numerous churches and not to mention Roman Theatre in the old town. Not having enough money to pay the supermarket bill. A hooker in the room next door from our impressive Hostel. A day trip to Sveti Naum on the Albanian border. More brilliant views of the lake looking back to Ohrid town.
A throw back to Turkey in Skopje's Bazaar district. Beers in a Tito inspired bar, Yugoslavia memorabilia adorning all the walls. The run down History Museum with clock stopped at 5:17 the time that the Skopje earthquake hit. The brilliant Macedonian flags. Mother Teresa's memorial, Skopje's favourite daughter.
Ohrid
Beautiful views of the lake from Sveti Trojan. Cobbled streets, numerous churches and not to mention Roman Theatre in the old town. Not having enough money to pay the supermarket bill. A hooker in the room next door from our impressive Hostel. A day trip to Sveti Naum on the Albanian border. More brilliant views of the lake looking back to Ohrid town.
Friday, April 24, 2009
Bulgaria
Plovdiv
First stop in Eastern Europe and a step back wealth wise from Turkey. Delightful old town full of restored wooden buildings. Centre piece being the Roman Theatre. Built on seven hills, great views from the Hill of Liberators. Huge surprise at the cost of beer. Bulgarian cuisine Beef tongue and tripe stew.Toy train like journey onto Bansko.
Blagoevgrad
Bulgaria's uni town. Full of trendy bars and cafes. Tiny little old town again full of restored wooden buildings. Comically rude ticket attendants at the bus and train stations. Comparative lap of luxury at Hotel Fenix. Great day trip to the mountain monastery of Rila. The bastion of Bulgarian Christianity through the Ottoman years.
Melnik
Bulgaria's smallest village. Home of the Melnik grape world famous in Bulgaria for its red wine. An afternoon in the sun consuming it, from Melnik's limestone cellar. Limestone cliffs reminiscent of Cappadocia. Rozhen Monastery via the wrong trail, the race to make the bus. Church ruins above the town linked by trails, sadly accompanied by the local dog.
Sofia
Stung for 40 leva on the tram for not punching our tickets and for having a backpack. A slice of Bulgarian cuisine in one of Sofia's traditional restaurants. An afternoon visiting Sofias churches, Sveti George the oldest monument in Sofia, Alexander Nevski the church built to honour the 200,000 Russians who died fighting against the Turks for Bulgarian independence. Free drinks in McCarthys bar, 50ml shots without mixer. Dinner at the world famous in Bulgaria Happy chain. Waitresses in short skirts and tight tops. Mission out to Mt Vitosha and a wrong turn hiking in the national park.
First stop in Eastern Europe and a step back wealth wise from Turkey. Delightful old town full of restored wooden buildings. Centre piece being the Roman Theatre. Built on seven hills, great views from the Hill of Liberators. Huge surprise at the cost of beer. Bulgarian cuisine Beef tongue and tripe stew.Toy train like journey onto Bansko.
Blagoevgrad
Bulgaria's uni town. Full of trendy bars and cafes. Tiny little old town again full of restored wooden buildings. Comically rude ticket attendants at the bus and train stations. Comparative lap of luxury at Hotel Fenix. Great day trip to the mountain monastery of Rila. The bastion of Bulgarian Christianity through the Ottoman years.
Melnik
Bulgaria's smallest village. Home of the Melnik grape world famous in Bulgaria for its red wine. An afternoon in the sun consuming it, from Melnik's limestone cellar. Limestone cliffs reminiscent of Cappadocia. Rozhen Monastery via the wrong trail, the race to make the bus. Church ruins above the town linked by trails, sadly accompanied by the local dog.
Sofia
Stung for 40 leva on the tram for not punching our tickets and for having a backpack. A slice of Bulgarian cuisine in one of Sofia's traditional restaurants. An afternoon visiting Sofias churches, Sveti George the oldest monument in Sofia, Alexander Nevski the church built to honour the 200,000 Russians who died fighting against the Turks for Bulgarian independence. Free drinks in McCarthys bar, 50ml shots without mixer. Dinner at the world famous in Bulgaria Happy chain. Waitresses in short skirts and tight tops. Mission out to Mt Vitosha and a wrong turn hiking in the national park.
Veliko Tarnovo
Sweet accomodation at Hostel Mostel, first seperate shower and toilet. Not to mention all inclusive dinner and beer. Beautiful old town with twin rivers at one of Bulgaria highlight towns. Peaceful hike through more lush bush to yet another monastery, Preobrazhenski. Visiting the long fall at Tsarverets Fortresses execution stone. History of the Bulgarian revolution of 1878 in the national revival museum. Another pleasant hike to Arabanasi a well restored village full of renovated Ottoman houses.
Monday, April 20, 2009
Turkey (part 2)
Olympos
Tasty Gozleme on the side of the motorway. Kadir's tree house's, which are thankfully waterproof as the overnight storm that hit was vicious. A long days walking through the Ta Phrom like Olypmpos ruins. Through to the laid back beachside town of Cirali and onto the mysterious combusitble gases of Chimaera. Beers around the campfire and a long walk to the toliet at 2am.
Kas
Small fishing village whose restaurant scene didnt really cater to our budget. However the best Meatball sandwich I have ever had. Strolling around the harbour with fishermen mending nets, Lycian Tombs and late evening sunshine on another Roman Theatre.
Fethiye
The perfect mix between modern Turkey and Tourism (unlike Ovacik 10k up the road). Brilliant views over the Marina from Tan Pension. The unrivalled hospitality at Tan Pension and the endless cups of tea. A wrong turn and rain putting paid to an afternoon walk on the Lycian Way in the direction of the 2000 abandoned houses in Kayakoy. Quite simply the best Kebab in Turkey the (Pasa Special) at Pasa Kebab. Two days later the novel meal in the fish market. Purchase the fish then give it to the chef and have it cooked in front of you. Shame about the 45 minute unexplained delay.
The Lycain Way
One of the best beaches at Oludeniz Lagoon, white sands and crystal clear waters. Brilliant views from up high on the Lycain Way looking back to Oludeniz with paragliders at touching distance. Small villages, stunning sea vistas and no tourists on the trek. If only all of Turkey was like that ! George House in Faralya, log cabin to sleep in and organic food all grown on the premises to eat. Not to mention the laid back hosts. The death defying track down to Butterfly Valley for a swim on the deserted beach (bar the skinng dipping Germans). Lunch at Mama's restaurant in Kabak our first stop on day two. Big vegetarian meal accompanied by heavenly yougurt and honey. A long climb in the direction of Alinca then retracing our steps to Fethiye by bus.
Pamukkale
Friendly although a tad contrived hosts at Hotel Weise Burg. Sinead did get her hands on amazing Gozleme straight from the fire courtesy of our host. An expensive excursion to the brilliant white calcium full tavertines. Further up to the healing town of Hierapolis. The large Necropolis inside indicates the magical healings success rate. Brilliant views from the Theatre down to Pamukkale and valley below.
Selcuk
The bustling Sunday market full of locals stocking up on delicious fruit and vege. Decent fare and cheap beers never fail to impress when on a budget. Storks nesting on the Byzantine aqueducts. The single pillar from the Temple of Artemis giving an indication to the size of former wonder of the ancient world. Turkey's number one attraction Ephesus the former capital of Western Asia Minor. The best example of a Roman town we have seen thus far. Another impressive theatre and facade of the Library of Celsus. Also the best quote on tour by of course a British package tourist " I thought this place would be better, I mean it is just a pile of rocks."
Bergama
One of our favourite lodging's at Odyssey House a restored Ottoman construction. One of the few people to walk the 7k up to the once mighty Greek Acropolis of Pergamon. Brilliant views to the town and valley below. The centre piece being the Temple of Trajan which was built so it could be seen from the town below. The 10,00 seat theatre was built into the hill and was impossibly steep. A wander through the Old Town backstreets to sight Galen's famous Asclepion. Stupidly paying to enter the enormous Red Basilica the views from outside were the same as inside. Nonetheless a huge Temple dedicated to Egyptian gods.
Cannakkale
Bit of a mission bus wise put paid to our proposed visit to Troy. A photo next to the Trojan Horse from Hollywood fame tempered the blow. Sought shelter in the well constructed War Museum. Home to the Nusret mine layer of WW1 fame, explanations of the naval campaign on the 18th of March 1915 and the ANZAC and Allied landings on the 25th of April. A documentary on Gallipoli and Mel Gibson in the move "Gallipoli" prepared us for our tour the next day. A so so tour of the battlefields and memorials. Great experience to piece together such and important chapter in NZ and Australian history. I will return one day though and complete the story.
Instanbul
Brilliant bus from Cannakale crossing the Dardanelles and following the Sea of Mamaras into the sprawling capital. Sadly disbelief at our four bed dorm in the basement of our hostel also accomodating two staff members. The A list sights of Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia. Disappointment at renovation affected Suleyman Cami. Tea in the afternoon sun in one of Istanbul's tea gardens. No dinner so we could afford beer and Raki along the pumping Nevizade street in the brilliant Beyoglu district. Yogurt and coffee watching Istanbul drift by aboard the Bosphorus ferry. A peak at the mansions that line the famous stretch of water. Souvenir shopping and suprising lack of hassle in the citys bazaar's. A late night boat accross for one last visit to "Asia" with Meze and beer to complete our month in Turkey.
Tasty Gozleme on the side of the motorway. Kadir's tree house's, which are thankfully waterproof as the overnight storm that hit was vicious. A long days walking through the Ta Phrom like Olypmpos ruins. Through to the laid back beachside town of Cirali and onto the mysterious combusitble gases of Chimaera. Beers around the campfire and a long walk to the toliet at 2am.
Kas
Small fishing village whose restaurant scene didnt really cater to our budget. However the best Meatball sandwich I have ever had. Strolling around the harbour with fishermen mending nets, Lycian Tombs and late evening sunshine on another Roman Theatre.
Fethiye
The perfect mix between modern Turkey and Tourism (unlike Ovacik 10k up the road). Brilliant views over the Marina from Tan Pension. The unrivalled hospitality at Tan Pension and the endless cups of tea. A wrong turn and rain putting paid to an afternoon walk on the Lycian Way in the direction of the 2000 abandoned houses in Kayakoy. Quite simply the best Kebab in Turkey the (Pasa Special) at Pasa Kebab. Two days later the novel meal in the fish market. Purchase the fish then give it to the chef and have it cooked in front of you. Shame about the 45 minute unexplained delay.
The Lycain Way
One of the best beaches at Oludeniz Lagoon, white sands and crystal clear waters. Brilliant views from up high on the Lycain Way looking back to Oludeniz with paragliders at touching distance. Small villages, stunning sea vistas and no tourists on the trek. If only all of Turkey was like that ! George House in Faralya, log cabin to sleep in and organic food all grown on the premises to eat. Not to mention the laid back hosts. The death defying track down to Butterfly Valley for a swim on the deserted beach (bar the skinng dipping Germans). Lunch at Mama's restaurant in Kabak our first stop on day two. Big vegetarian meal accompanied by heavenly yougurt and honey. A long climb in the direction of Alinca then retracing our steps to Fethiye by bus.
Pamukkale
Friendly although a tad contrived hosts at Hotel Weise Burg. Sinead did get her hands on amazing Gozleme straight from the fire courtesy of our host. An expensive excursion to the brilliant white calcium full tavertines. Further up to the healing town of Hierapolis. The large Necropolis inside indicates the magical healings success rate. Brilliant views from the Theatre down to Pamukkale and valley below.
Selcuk
The bustling Sunday market full of locals stocking up on delicious fruit and vege. Decent fare and cheap beers never fail to impress when on a budget. Storks nesting on the Byzantine aqueducts. The single pillar from the Temple of Artemis giving an indication to the size of former wonder of the ancient world. Turkey's number one attraction Ephesus the former capital of Western Asia Minor. The best example of a Roman town we have seen thus far. Another impressive theatre and facade of the Library of Celsus. Also the best quote on tour by of course a British package tourist " I thought this place would be better, I mean it is just a pile of rocks."
Bergama
One of our favourite lodging's at Odyssey House a restored Ottoman construction. One of the few people to walk the 7k up to the once mighty Greek Acropolis of Pergamon. Brilliant views to the town and valley below. The centre piece being the Temple of Trajan which was built so it could be seen from the town below. The 10,00 seat theatre was built into the hill and was impossibly steep. A wander through the Old Town backstreets to sight Galen's famous Asclepion. Stupidly paying to enter the enormous Red Basilica the views from outside were the same as inside. Nonetheless a huge Temple dedicated to Egyptian gods.
Cannakkale
Bit of a mission bus wise put paid to our proposed visit to Troy. A photo next to the Trojan Horse from Hollywood fame tempered the blow. Sought shelter in the well constructed War Museum. Home to the Nusret mine layer of WW1 fame, explanations of the naval campaign on the 18th of March 1915 and the ANZAC and Allied landings on the 25th of April. A documentary on Gallipoli and Mel Gibson in the move "Gallipoli" prepared us for our tour the next day. A so so tour of the battlefields and memorials. Great experience to piece together such and important chapter in NZ and Australian history. I will return one day though and complete the story.
Instanbul
Brilliant bus from Cannakale crossing the Dardanelles and following the Sea of Mamaras into the sprawling capital. Sadly disbelief at our four bed dorm in the basement of our hostel also accomodating two staff members. The A list sights of Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia. Disappointment at renovation affected Suleyman Cami. Tea in the afternoon sun in one of Istanbul's tea gardens. No dinner so we could afford beer and Raki along the pumping Nevizade street in the brilliant Beyoglu district. Yogurt and coffee watching Istanbul drift by aboard the Bosphorus ferry. A peak at the mansions that line the famous stretch of water. Souvenir shopping and suprising lack of hassle in the citys bazaar's. A late night boat accross for one last visit to "Asia" with Meze and beer to complete our month in Turkey.
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