heoj

France

Lodeve
Seven nights in the house with the non matching crokery and rushing river suitable for a inflatable tyre. The group swells with Vins arrival. Roquefort in the cellars eleven stories high. Our first and certanily not last tasting of the blue stuff. Crossing the worlds tallest bridge at Millau an impressive feat of engineering. Swimming in the surprisingly cold waters of Cap D Agde with a second dip in the brownish waters of Lac du Salagou. Provences finest Roman ruin in Pont du Gard, great vews as we swam below. My second visit to Avignon, a tough place to park a car then some absent mindness as we leave our bag in the square. Picturesque Languedoc countryside but a tough place to taste some wine. A hidden gem in St Guilhem le Desert and its quaint monastery. Final day driving through the stunning Tarn Gorge. Tight roads, breathtaking swim at St Chaly du Tarn and Tartiflete at St Enime. A bit more of a sedate drive through the Jonte gorge direction Lodeve for the final time.

Nice
More company as Adeline and Rob arrive and then finally Grant. Warmer mediteranean waters shame about the pebbles. Time slot for the markets and a few winding streets in Nices old town. Day trip to Monaco for the prologue and the start of the Tour. A rather characterless place with plenty of ugly apartments. Pigeons attack our lunch as we cool ourselves in the sea.

Bandol
What a find small seaside village near Marseille. Hotel overlooking the sea and our first authentic meal of Moule Frite.

Montpellier
Side trip to Arles for a stage immense heat but some sights in the impressive Colloseum like Amphitheatre and Theatre. Our return to Montpellier for the TTT. Sleepy sort of town with quite back streets the Chateau d Leau and enormous Roman Aquaduct.

Carcasonne
Our first ill fated taste of camping, what I thought was a blanket proved to be a pillow. However the two second tent lives up to its name. Allez les Kiwis is born.

Italy (part one)

Trieste
Short term home to James Joyce. Seep town with views from the cathederal and castle ruins. A ride on what has to be the worlds steepest tram.

Tremezzo
Beer and homecooked meals on our balcony overlooking the shimmering waters of Lake Como. Bank to bank on the ferry as we circumnavigate the lake. Celebrity spotting in the 1930s styled resort of Bellagio. Hike from the sleepy town of Breglia up to Refugio Menaggio at 1400 metres. Gourmet sandwiches with a view of Lake Como, Lugano and Lago di Piano.

Slovenia

Lubljana
More company as the Sinnotts arrive. Lunch in a converted prison, then cherries in the produce market. Free museum day with visits to the City and History museums. Weddings at Lubljana castle. Bird attacks in Tivoli Park. Bus to Lake Bled for a lap of the lake with the obligatory photos of the church on the Island. Followed by a visit to the roaring waters of the Vintgar Gorge. A nice amble through some picturesque countryside to and from the gorge.

Croatia

Dubrovnik
Cruise ship central. Impressive fortifications and architecture of the old town. A complete circuit of the city walls. First swim in the crystal clear Adriatic. A day trip to Lokrum Island, Fort ruins, a monastery, mating peacocks, swimming and another high plunge.

Hvar Island
Dino the man the legend and his incredible apartment. Plenty of beers on the balcony looking down on a setting sun over the town. Idling the day away in our 5 horse power boat. Navigating the crystal clear Adriatic waters of the Pakheri Islands. Backward flip competitions, seafood, ice cream and plenty of swimming.

Split
Wandering Diocletians Palace an eclectic mix of Roman ruins, apartments and bars. One final swim with the locals.

Zagreb
Confusion over tram stops resulting in a two hour mission to find the Hostel. Evening walk through the Austro Hungarian arcitecture. City views up Golton Hill and a great fight on the way home.

Bosnia and Hercegovina

Mostar
Our introduction to the mindless fighting from the early 90s. Bullet holes and shells of buildings remain untouched. The family feel at legendary Majda's Rooms. A distinctly Turkish air wandering the old town. The call to prayer slipping back into our day to day consciousness. Mostar's crowning glory the Stari Most. Serious meat sweats from our riverside mixed grill. Cruising around the Bosnian countryside with Bata on "The Tour". A snapshot of Bosnias past mixed in with rope swings and a 12 metre plunge off a railway bridge. Herbal Tea, the strange pilgrimage site of Madjegorge, ancient fortifcations at Pocitelj and the Dervish lodge at Blagaj. All Cyrillic on road signs blanked out.

Sarajevo
Bosnia's third tourist attraction the stunning railway from Mostar to Sarajevo, hugging the Neretva river. Strong Coffee, Mosques and Hans in the Turkish quarter. The infamous Latin Bridge site of Franz Ferdinand's assasination. Sarajevo Brewery, nice bar but expensive beer. Impressive display at the History Museum on the Sarajevo Siege. Graveyards dotting the suburbs. Too much Cevapici for dinner. 25 metre walk through the original Sarajevo Tunnel. A seemingly different world on the Serbian Suburb of the town. Views from the hills where the Serbs held the town hostage.

Montenegro

Zabljak
Snow in June ?? Hotel Zabljak, straight out of 1960 Yugoslavia and hasn't changed a bit. Three meals of pork and copious amounts of oil. The spectacular scenery of the Durmitor National Park. Stunning Black Lake framed by snow capped peaks and pine forest. The brooding rounded mass of Mt Meded. A successful summit followed by a hair raising decent. Europes largest Canyon the Tara Gorge, impossibly steep cliffs and turquoise water.

Budva
Impressive thunderstorms. A well kept old town, with a distinct maritime feel. Numerous beaches on the 5 k walk to Sveti Stefan. A former fishing village now the home to the rich and famous. Swimming in its shadows in the crystal clear Adriatic.

Kotor
Southern Eu ropes largest Fjord and a relatively undiscovered stretch of water. Underground rivers bubbling under the authentic feeling Stari Grad. A days kayaking to Perast. A sleepy village home to a man made island. Next time we wont forget the suncream.

Herceg Novi
Our introduction to the phenomenon that is the concrete beach.

Serbia

Novi Sad
A traditional dining experience at Bela Ladja, sitting in the seats where the Einstein family supposedly dined. More views to the Danube below from the Citadel. The novel surroundings for the Exit Festival. Enormous thunder and lightning during our visit to the regional museum, with added intrigue and insight from the quirky curator.

Belgrade
For those in any doubt, Belgrade isn't a pretty city! Gritty Communist Architecture at its best. The memorable 25th of May museum, home to innumerable gifts to the Yugoslavian leader Tito. Along with what has to be the best baton collection in the world. A visit to his self designed grave. An impressive collection of arms at the military museum, including a somewhat humorous (to us) display from the 1999 Nato bombing. The feel of a real fortress above the confluence of the Suva and Danube rivers. Traffic jams, trolley buses and grills. The staple of a authentic visit to Belgrade.

Slovakia

Strbske Pleso
Feeling like a member of the Czechoslovakia ski jump team staying in Hotel Fis. Directly under the two enormous ski jumps. An introductory hike to the Tatras, around Strbske Pleso (lake) and up through the snow to Chata Sloisko Pod.

Tatranske Lomnica
Suburb londgings in our wood cabin Pension Daniella. Three days hiking in the region, two six hour days and as Sinead said an epic eight hour effort. Stunning peaks, frozen lakes, snow filled valleys, snow melt filled waterfalls and rivers. Not to mention the Chata's that dot the trails. Questions abound as too how they managed to put a cable car up the precipitous peak of Lomincky Stit. Unbeleivable devastation caused to the pine forests by the 2004 storm. The wind would have truly been something too behold. Swiss like trains connecting the tiny alpine villages. A bit of a laugh on Tatra Bob.

Bratislava
The impressive fortifications at Devin Castle. Great views to the Danube and Austria across the water. The eyesore UFO bridge, with the ubiquitous communist housing in the background. Impressive displays and moving stories at the brand new Jewish Museum. The under construction Bratislava Castle. Cobbled streets and the sad sight of named polo shirts with English accents in the Old Town. Did I mention the 90 cent beer.

Hungary

Miskolc
Nice town but please tell me where the accomodation is? One word that will stay in my mind and taste buds for a long time though "Megaburger!"

Budapest
Crossing into Hungary via the Maria Valeria bridge into Eztergom. Backpacks on during a visit to Eztergom's basilica, the largest cathedral in the country. Great views to the Danube below. Action packed three days in the pomp of Austro-Hungarian architecture in the suburbs of Buda and Pest. The largest synagogue in Europe, attractive Moorish appearance. Touching exhibits of the Jewish deportation. The impressive Terror museum tackling the dual occupation of the Nazis and Communists. Housed in the former headquarters of the Arrow Cross, AVO and AVH. Amazing displays, some rooms with a movie set feel. Two bath visits, the Art Nouveau Gellert baths and the Szechenyi baths surrounded by an inner city park. A visit to the unique Momento Park, home to an eclectic array of Communist Statues and other memorabilia. A highlight was the 6m tall Communist soldier that once stood atop of Gellert Hill. Goulash served authentically as a soup. Stunning sunset views atop Gellert Hill. The lifestyles of the rich and famous at Castle Hill, Budapest's former seat of monarchy and medieval heart.

Romania

Bucharest
Expect the worst and you are always surprised. No packs of dogs, yet tree lined roads and more grand buildings. Hardly the image we had in our minds. Two fantastic museums in the Peasant and Village museums. The later an open air museum full of traditional dwellings from all over Romania. Ceausescu's Palace the world's second largest building at the end of Romania's own Champs Elysees. The enormous Cismigiu park with lake for ice skating in winter. More French like icon's in the Triumphal Arch and Gare di Nord.

Sinaia
Our first taste of Transylvania. A real ski resort feel. Snow still high on the peaks curtailing our hiking activities. A hike to 1400m for great views of the valley and town. Then a cable car to 2000m for an hike in the middle of an Electrical storm with falling snow. The incredibly lavish Peles castle home of the first king of Romania Carol 1. A visit to the less impressive Pelisor Castle, Queen Maria's Art Nouveau brain child.

Brasov
Into bear country, our obsession begins !! The hilarious Hollywood style Brasov sign. Breaking yet another sweet to reach it. Amazing views over the medieval old town below. The spacious Piata Sfatului, framed by the Black Church. Full of Anatolian rugs, the black fire damage which gave the church its name was long gone. The interesting guild towers, still standing watch over the city. Dusty Zarnesti gateway to the beautiful Piatra Craiului national park. Two days hiking in Cold Mountain territory. Two lunches in the dramatically set Cabana Camatiuri, two St Bernard dogs for company. Scaling the sweaty parm inducing climb behind the Cabana to 1830m for stunning views way below.

Magura
A back breaking hike from the bus stop to Villa Park, fully ladden with backpack and supplies. Two nights of seclusion in our farm/moutain stay. Fresh cows milk every morning for breakfast. Dirt roads linking the villages, bridged by horse and cart, a real step back in time. A visit to Bran Castle inspiration behind Dracula's castle. A long hike back through farm land with stray dog in tow.

Sibiu
A short stop to the impeccably preserved 2007 European capital of culture. More guild towers and medievil defenses. Obligatory hike up the council tower for the best view in town. Impressive gothic rooftop of the Evangelical Church. A real slow pace of life converging on the Piata Mare.

Sibiel
An unforgettable night with our quirky host Sorian at Pension Mioritica. Impeccable garden with out houses full of memorabilia, including the brilliant communist room. Three bridges spanning the gushing stream. A pleasant stroll to chilli monastery, then a pointless hike a wrong turn resulting in a dog chase in the surrounding hills. Sibiel's number one attraction the best collection of glass icons in the world!

Sighisoara
Vlad Tepes (Dracula's) home town for 4 years. Quintessential Transylvania, a delightful citadel minus the manicured feel. An intriguing mix of museums housed in the clock tower. Torture techniques middle age armaments and former physicians scary instruments. Not to mention more guild towers, still standing proud. Out into the countryside yet again to Brateiu and a visit to a fortified church, of a former Saxon village.

Cluj
Aimless walking through the pleasant pedestrian streets in search of a bed for the night. Followed by a visit to the only open tourist attraction, the botanical gardens. First taste of Chinese for at least three months.

Macedonia

Skopje
A throw back to Turkey in Skopje's Bazaar district. Beers in a Tito inspired bar, Yugoslavia memorabilia adorning all the walls. The run down History Museum with clock stopped at 5:17 the time that the Skopje earthquake hit. The brilliant Macedonian flags. Mother Teresa's memorial, Skopje's favourite daughter.

Ohrid
Beautiful views of the lake from Sveti Trojan. Cobbled streets, numerous churches and not to mention Roman Theatre in the old town. Not having enough money to pay the supermarket bill. A hooker in the room next door from our impressive Hostel. A day trip to Sveti Naum on the Albanian border. More brilliant views of the lake looking back to Ohrid town.

Bulgaria

Plovdiv

First stop in Eastern Europe and a step back wealth wise from Turkey. Delightful old town full of restored wooden buildings. Centre piece being the Roman Theatre. Built on seven hills, great views from the Hill of Liberators. Huge surprise at the cost of beer. Bulgarian cuisine Beef tongue and tripe stew.Toy train like journey onto Bansko.

Blagoevgrad

Bulgaria's uni town. Full of trendy bars and cafes. Tiny little old town again full of restored wooden buildings. Comically rude ticket attendants at the bus and train stations. Comparative lap of luxury at Hotel Fenix. Great day trip to the mountain monastery of Rila. The bastion of Bulgarian Christianity through the Ottoman years.

Melnik
Bulgaria's smallest village. Home of the Melnik grape world famous in Bulgaria for its red wine. An afternoon in the sun consuming it, from Melnik's limestone cellar. Limestone cliffs reminiscent of Cappadocia. Rozhen Monastery via the wrong trail, the race to make the bus. Church ruins above the town linked by trails, sadly accompanied by the local dog.

Sofia
Stung for 40 leva on the tram for not punching our tickets and for having a backpack. A slice of Bulgarian cuisine in one of Sofia's traditional restaurants. An afternoon visiting Sofias churches, Sveti George the oldest monument in Sofia, Alexander Nevski the church built to honour the 200,000 Russians who died fighting against the Turks for Bulgarian independence. Free drinks in McCarthys bar, 50ml shots without mixer. Dinner at the world famous in Bulgaria Happy chain. Waitresses in short skirts and tight tops. Mission out to Mt Vitosha and a wrong turn hiking in the national park.

Veliko Tarnovo
Sweet accomodation at Hostel Mostel, first seperate shower and toilet. Not to mention all inclusive dinner and beer. Beautiful old town with twin rivers at one of Bulgaria highlight towns. Peaceful hike through more lush bush to yet another monastery, Preobrazhenski. Visiting the long fall at Tsarverets Fortresses execution stone. History of the Bulgarian revolution of 1878 in the national revival museum. Another pleasant hike to Arabanasi a well restored village full of renovated Ottoman houses.

Turkey (part 2)

Olympos
Tasty Gozleme on the side of the motorway. Kadir's tree house's, which are thankfully waterproof as the overnight storm that hit was vicious. A long days walking through the Ta Phrom like Olypmpos ruins. Through to the laid back beachside town of Cirali and onto the mysterious combusitble gases of Chimaera. Beers around the campfire and a long walk to the toliet at 2am.

Kas
Small fishing village whose restaurant scene didnt really cater to our budget. However the best Meatball sandwich I have ever had. Strolling around the harbour with fishermen mending nets, Lycian Tombs and late evening sunshine on another Roman Theatre.

Fethiye
The perfect mix between modern Turkey and Tourism (unlike Ovacik 10k up the road). Brilliant views over the Marina from Tan Pension. The unrivalled hospitality at Tan Pension and the endless cups of tea. A wrong turn and rain putting paid to an afternoon walk on the Lycian Way in the direction of the 2000 abandoned houses in Kayakoy. Quite simply the best Kebab in Turkey the (Pasa Special) at Pasa Kebab. Two days later the novel meal in the fish market. Purchase the fish then give it to the chef and have it cooked in front of you. Shame about the 45 minute unexplained delay.

The Lycain Way
One of the best beaches at Oludeniz Lagoon, white sands and crystal clear waters. Brilliant views from up high on the Lycain Way looking back to Oludeniz with paragliders at touching distance. Small villages, stunning sea vistas and no tourists on the trek. If only all of Turkey was like that ! George House in Faralya, log cabin to sleep in and organic food all grown on the premises to eat. Not to mention the laid back hosts. The death defying track down to Butterfly Valley for a swim on the deserted beach (bar the skinng dipping Germans). Lunch at Mama's restaurant in Kabak our first stop on day two. Big vegetarian meal accompanied by heavenly yougurt and honey. A long climb in the direction of Alinca then retracing our steps to Fethiye by bus.

Pamukkale
Friendly although a tad contrived hosts at Hotel Weise Burg. Sinead did get her hands on amazing Gozleme straight from the fire courtesy of our host. An expensive excursion to the brilliant white calcium full tavertines. Further up to the healing town of Hierapolis. The large Necropolis inside indicates the magical healings success rate. Brilliant views from the Theatre down to Pamukkale and valley below.

Selcuk
The bustling Sunday market full of locals stocking up on delicious fruit and vege. Decent fare and cheap beers never fail to impress when on a budget. Storks nesting on the Byzantine aqueducts. The single pillar from the Temple of Artemis giving an indication to the size of former wonder of the ancient world. Turkey's number one attraction Ephesus the former capital of Western Asia Minor. The best example of a Roman town we have seen thus far. Another impressive theatre and facade of the Library of Celsus. Also the best quote on tour by of course a British package tourist " I thought this place would be better, I mean it is just a pile of rocks."

Bergama
One of our favourite lodging's at Odyssey House a restored Ottoman construction. One of the few people to walk the 7k up to the once mighty Greek Acropolis of Pergamon. Brilliant views to the town and valley below. The centre piece being the Temple of Trajan which was built so it could be seen from the town below. The 10,00 seat theatre was built into the hill and was impossibly steep. A wander through the Old Town backstreets to sight Galen's famous Asclepion. Stupidly paying to enter the enormous Red Basilica the views from outside were the same as inside. Nonetheless a huge Temple dedicated to Egyptian gods.

Cannakkale
Bit of a mission bus wise put paid to our proposed visit to Troy. A photo next to the Trojan Horse from Hollywood fame tempered the blow. Sought shelter in the well constructed War Museum. Home to the Nusret mine layer of WW1 fame, explanations of the naval campaign on the 18th of March 1915 and the ANZAC and Allied landings on the 25th of April. A documentary on Gallipoli and Mel Gibson in the move "Gallipoli" prepared us for our tour the next day. A so so tour of the battlefields and memorials. Great experience to piece together such and important chapter in NZ and Australian history. I will return one day though and complete the story.

Instanbul
Brilliant bus from Cannakale crossing the Dardanelles and following the Sea of Mamaras into the sprawling capital. Sadly disbelief at our four bed dorm in the basement of our hostel also accomodating two staff members. The A list sights of Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia. Disappointment at renovation affected Suleyman Cami. Tea in the afternoon sun in one of Istanbul's tea gardens. No dinner so we could afford beer and Raki along the pumping Nevizade street in the brilliant Beyoglu district. Yogurt and coffee watching Istanbul drift by aboard the Bosphorus ferry. A peak at the mansions that line the famous stretch of water. Souvenir shopping and suprising lack of hassle in the citys bazaar's. A late night boat accross for one last visit to "Asia" with Meze and beer to complete our month in Turkey.

Turkey

Antakya
Our Turkish city of firsts. First Otogar (bus station), Servis, Doner Kebab, Efes, Turkish Breakfast (tomato, cucumber, olives, bread, salted cheese). Tidy little town in the grips of local elections. Surrounded by mountains and a stones throw from Syria.

Sanliurfa
The furtherest we ventured east. A traditional town, a throw back to Syria. Pilgrim town where Abraham hid from King Nimrod and Job lived in a cave waiting for God. The beautiful Golbasi. A garden comemorating Abraham's story where God turned the coals Nimrod put him on into fish and the fire into water. Butcher's street with carcasses hanging everywhere.

Gaziantap
One word Baklava !! The home of it and reputably the best in the world at Imam Cagdas. Interesting story of Antep's rebellion against colonisation. The impressive Mosaic Museum housing the mysterious Gypsy Girl. A pleasant cup of Tea in a converted Hamam, with Turkısh folk music in the background.

Kayseri
A cold spot wıth snow on the ground. Set against the backdrop of Mt Erciyes and home to Turkish Pastrami. A garlic tasting version at that. Our fırst taste of carpet sellers resulting in a tour around the Bazaar and Caravaniseri.

Goreme

Snow covered lunar landscape. Our very own cave for three nights. The distinct town of Goreme with numerous pension built in the rocks. A long tour to the main sights of Cappadocia. Derinkuyu the largest underground city, 8 stories and 55m under the ground. A small hike in the Ihlara valley a canyon like expanse. Lunch in the valley on the banks of the Melendiz Syu river. A leisurely day hiking the Rose and Red canyons, the names aptly describing the landscape. Finally the Goreme open air museum. A collection of Byzantine churches dug into the hills. Some with vivid frescoes.

Konya

Two words "Whirling Dervishes." The Islamic brotherhood of Mevlana, a brilliant student of Islamic Theology. A spiritual visit to his Masoleum (even for me). The cleanest Hotel in the Middle East at Ulusan Hotel. Toasted sandwiches for breakfast a tasty touch.

Antalya

Our first sight of the Mediteranean and what a backdrop with snow covered mountains hovering over the pebble beaches. Hotel Oscar and our Half Board experience. Eating way too much from the buffet. But making the most of the incredible array of Meze. Fanatastic excavations from Perge in the Antayla Museum. Including a large array of Sarcophogus and Greek God statues. A huge black cloud blocking the sun as we went for a dip in the cool waters. Expensive beers in the Roman Harbour and possible the worst boat trip in the world. Thankfully we aren't that gullible. Bitte Scheon as we wandered the manicured old town.

Syrıa

Damascus
Social accomodation at Al Rahemı, where our room backed out onto the communal area. A visit to the underwhelming Natıonal Museum, the only redeemıng feature being the exhibit of the worlds oldest alphabet from Urgarit. Our first mosque visit in the Umayyad Mosque deep in the old town. A bit of a laugh as Sinead dons a Burkha. Followed by a visit to Saladins Masoleum. A beer in a Christıan Quarter bar, dark, dingy and full of smoke. Gettıng lost in the Souqs fılled wıth locals shopping. Sanctuary in the Azam Palace, a decadent remnant of the Ottoman era. Day trip to Bosra and the impressive fortified theatre. The black basalt remains of the Roman Vıllage now inhabited by local families.

Palmyra
Syrias number one sight. The remains of the town smack bang in the middle of the desert. The enormous sacrificial Bel Temple. The colonaded street that once led to Damascus. Double storey tombs that are now open to dıscovery. Stunning views of the ruins, oasis and town below, from the Arabian Castle perched up a calf breaking hill.

Hama
Compact town famous for ıts Norias (Waterwheels). An afternoon stroll and an impromtu cup of tea and fresh lettuce with the Norias caretaker and famıly. Vıews from the Cıtadel and a snapshot of local history from the Hama Museum. First sight of rain for a month sadly coincıdıng with our visit to the impregnable Crusader Castle, Crac de Chevalier. First stop though was the Citadel of Miysaf former home of the Arab Assasins. Two local buses onto the hilltop Roman ruins of Appamea. A contrast to Palmyra as we were surrounded by lush green grass.

Latakia
A brief stop to the most liberal town we visited ın the Mıddle East. Coffee culture and Western styled dining rains supreme. Our first sight of girls smokıng Nargileh ın public. A friendly taxi to the historic Saladins castle. A sprawling ruin set with sheer drops on either side. The retractable draw bridge the only link with the outside world.

Aleppo
Syrias second largest cıty, a sprawling population of 4 million. More views from a castle from the Citys Citadel. Mobbed by school kids in the lavishly restored throne room. Some tourist souvenirs ın the 13th Century Ottoman Souq. Dining lıke a celebrity in a local restaurant from the famıly room.Sampling some of Aleppos renowned kebabs. An overpriced day trıp to the Basilica of St Simeon. The site where St Simeon sat atop 18m pillars to be closer to God ! A brilliantly preserved Byzantine church with views over the rocky landscape below. A bizarre place indeed.

Jordan

Aqaba
First stop in Jordan on the Red Sea. The enormous Movenpick Resort. Jordanians holiday by the sea. Numerous glass boat tours. An impromtu tour around a Jordanian bakery with Pita bread to taste. Laid back feel with football fans celebrating on the street. A visit to the old Crusader Castle later conquered by Laurence of Arabia.

Wadi Rum
An overnight stay in the desert in our very own tent for the night. Complete with an amazing buffet dinner of Mezze and Kofta. A six hour hike through the desert, hard work in the sun without sufficient water. Taking in Laurence of Arabia's spring, a canyon and Bedouin tents. Topped off by a scramble through a deep ravine. An amazing landscape, rugged hills and different coloured desert sands.

Wadi Musa-Petra
An unfortunate start with a cancelled bus and resulting 40 dinar taxi to Petra. Hitch hiking to Small Petra which we had to ourselves. Also a visit to the oldest village (Bedaya) in the Middle East. A ride back to Wadi Musa with the New Zealand lady who wrote Married to a Bedouin, who still lives in Petra! 30th birthday celebrations hiking around the Rose Tinted City, former home to the mighty Nabatean dynasty. The 1.2k long Siq with The Treasury magically appearing, views from the High Place of Sacrifice, the massive Monastery, Roman Theatre, The Royal Tombs (Palace Tomb and the Urn Tomb), Colonaded street, the list goes on! Very sore legs as we conquered just about every peak in the region.

Madaba
Bus to the Amman turnoff then another hithed ride to town. Home of the Mosaics including the Mosaic Map in St Georges church. Day trip to Mt Nebo where Moses saw the promised land and also died. Onto Bethany beyond the Jordan where John the Baptist baptised Jesus, literally a stones throw from the Israeli border. Finally bobbing in the Dead Sea, a truly memorable experience.

Amman
Final stop in Jordan. A day spent visiting the Citadel with the impressive National Archaelogical Museum housing reputably the oldest sculptures in the world. Followed by the enormous Roman Theatre smack bang in the middle of Downtown Amman. Legendary Turkish Pizza, Felafel sandwiches and fresh juice. A day excursion to the best preserved Roman city outside Italy in Jerash.

Egypt

Cairo
The amzing nine Pyramids of Giza. The oldest stone monument in the world- at Saqqara. Stepped in shape. Dahshur and the Red Pyramid- Kafre father's. A look inside to see the intricate construction. The bent pyramid that went slightly wrong in the distance.
Tutenkahmens 11kg mask in the Egyptian Museum.
Overnight bomb in the labrynth that is Khan el Khalili market.
Crosses on Christian Churches in the Coptic area, a strange sight indeed.
Overnight sleeper to Aswan.

Aswan
Felucca ride skippered by our Nubian guide. Friendship then anger when the tip wasnt forth coming.
The impressive Nubian Museum with an interesting piece on the relocation of Abu Simbel.
The six hour return journey to Abu Simbel only a further 80k to the Sudanese border. The twenty metre high Temple built by Ramses the 2nd. With the ten metre high Temple of Hathor next door featruing his wife Nefertari.
Sinead's birthday ruined by my dodgy stomach, yet again!!
Local ferry to the Tombs ofthe Nobles accross the Nile for great views back to the city.
Constant hassle on the riverfront and Souq

Luxor
Bike hire and a trip to the Temple of Hatsheput. A short ride to the incredible Valley of the Kings. Sixty tombs of great Pharoahs and nobles. Impeccable facades and designs.
A visit to the Temple of Karnak the largest Egyptian excavation site.
A dodgy Hotel with shifty hosts. Beers and brekie on the roof made it bearable.
The 17 hour bus mission to Dahab.

Dahab
A backpacker Oasis and a welcome rest from the rest of Egpyt. Breakfast on the beach with the flies and stray cats. World class snorkelling at the Lighthouse reef and unbelievably built up Blue Hole.
A sunset trip to the snow covered Mt Sinai. An easy 2 hour hike to the 2282m high summit for stunning views of the barren landscape. Sadly a cloudy evening ruling out a decent sunset.

Nuweiba
Beach huts on our very own slice of paradise. Our friendly Sudanese host Mohammed who cooked us both brekkie and dinner. The nightmare that is the slow ferry to Jordan. Two hours waiting on the boat then unable to get off once docked !

27 Weekends (part 10)

Austria, Tour de Tirol Oct 08

No lift from Stansted to our B and B, much to Sineads disgust.Fog on arrival in Salzburg. Seeing the peaks as we approached Berchtesgaden. Catching the bus to Eagles Nest for views of the Bavarian alps and Kongisee below. The original bronze elevator to Hitlers Tea House. A brief stop in Kongisee for pretzels and a close up of the lake. A anxious drive across the border in Austria and onto Reith an Alpbach the flower village for Sineads 10K race. First sight of Jonathan Wyatt and the Kenyans battling it out for line honours. Relaxation in Landhaus Strasser with our throne like toilet, enormous padded bed and walk in shower. Early morning breakfast with Jonathan Wyatt with impressive views of the Tyrol mountains and the village of Soll. A grueling 42K with the impossibly steep last three k to the finish on top of Hohe Salve. Post race feed and beer in the revolving restaurant. Dinner party in Soll and yarning with a fellow kiwi and now native of Soll. Last race and Sineads half marathon in Walchsee with four laps of the lake. Victory for team Alternatives and a cash prize. Traffic jam on the Autobahn and a missed flight in Munich. Whats another night in Munich beers and dinner at the Hoffbrauhaus. Yet more sunshine the following day and a train to Baden Baden and and departure from Karlsruhe Airport.

Italy, Milan and Venice November 08

Milan with Anna for the final marathon of the year. Registration in the shadow of the immense Duomo. A fascinating visit to the Teatro Alla Scala, Milans theatre. A walk through the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuelle and window shopping along the impossibly expensive Via Monte Napoleone. A visit to Michellangelos last supper through three sets of security doors into a very modern room with a very old painting. A huge Apertivo on an old bike warehouse. Early start before struggling through 42k, a view of the San Siro and the start and finish outside the Castello Sforzesco. Afternoon train to Venice Canal Boat 1 to San Marco square and the plush accommodation of the Ca Dei Conti. A day of wandering the canals with espresso stops along the way. The Rialto Bridge, Jewish quarter, Basillica de San Marco with sloping floors, views from the Bell Tower, advertising hoardings on the Ponte dei Sospiri (bridge of sighs).

27 Weekends (part 9)

Italy, Cinque Terre, Tuscany and Umbria Sept 08
Back in Pisa for a night chilling in the main square with the Italians who just tend to stand around chatting. First coffee of the trip and a pastry for breakie. Reunion with the family on the train to Levanto. First glimpses of the Cinque Terre towns. Well positioned apartment in Levanto town, five minutes to the beach. First run along the cliff top paths and naturally a seafood dinner. Running the cliffs through the five towns, Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and a welcomed swim at Riomaggiore. Pizza in Manarola and John struggling up the steps to Corniglia. Rain and a beer in Vernazza. Train up the coast to Santa Margherita Ligure and boat over to Portofino. €7 beers in the sun served by Italy's most arrogant waiter. Bus along the coast past the numerous mansions. On the road after a brief stop at the leaning tower. First stop Casole d Elsa and a surprise over our luxurious apartment. Our very own restaurant how good is steak, rocket and parmesan? John taking a tumble the following night to the town proper, my mac light not cutting the mustard on the rocky path. First hilltop town stop at the completely walled town of Monteriggioni with its short walk on the walls. Driving in circles looking for a park in Sienna. Impressive lunch at a Lonely Planet guided Osteria. Imagining the horse race around the Piazza del Campo. Sinead and Helen draped in shawls in the black and white striped Sienna Cathedral. Views and photos from the East wall of the unbuilt new cathedral. Hilltop town day, the cold wind in Volterra and stumbling over an active jail, the 14 towers of San Gimignano tourist town. First wine tasting of the day with my balcony in the sun. Onward to Grieve in Chianti for wine tasting via a pre paid card and a snack at the famous Macelleria. Stunning views and more tasting in Volpaia before a lesson in Balsamic vinegar in Radda in Chianti. Direction Umbria and day two of hilltop towns. A Brunello in Montalcino in the fortress of course, Pecorino cheese in the town of Pienza, steep steps and roads result in a glass of wine and charchuterie snack in Montepulciano. Our rural retreat in Citta Del Pieve Umbria. A medieval dinner in a tucked away restaurant. My delight in ordering a block of Parmigiana Cheese and disgust when it was grated. John on the BBQ and the huge feed of steak. The view of Lake Trasimeno from the fort in Castiglione del Lago. Sampling some local produce and buying the old man some Grappa. The incredible St Francis cathederal with the two churches. The magnificent frescoes. The emotion of St Francis resting place under the Cathedral. Delicious Bruschetta in a quaint Osteria in Spello. Getting lost in search of Roman ruins. The incredible facade on Orvieto Cathedral. The underground tunnels and houses of Orvieto where Pigeons where bred for food. Lunch in a converted cave thanks to Ethel. Successfully navigating the rental car in downtown Rome.